Saturday, December 15, 2018

Felted Knit Clog Style Slippers




So, I wanted to make some felted wool slippers and I struggled to find a pattern for something I liked. I did find a lovely pattern for a pair that was made pretty much like an oversized anklet sock but though they shrank lengthwise they were like 3 or 4” too big around. (The cat loves them and sleeps on them every day.) They have already gone through the felting process twice so I am not sure if they will shrink around much more.



The blue slipper is the size the gray pair started out at before being felted. They felted beautifully but are way too big around.

After making those and having such bad luck I came up with this clog version. Love them! They are quick and easy, worked flat, and make me happy.



Sorry about the photos. This new place has horrible lighting for photo taking and I have no room to set up a studio area. Despite the bad photos, I think you can see how cute and cozy these felted slippers turned out.

This is my pattern:

Clog Style Felted Knit Slippers

Size 11 knitting needles (I used 24” circulars but they should work on straight needles also.)
Worked flat
Gauge = 3 sts per 1” and 3 rows per 1” in stockinette
Patton’s Wool
You can make these with 1 skein each of the two colors for the single stranded version but for the two strand version I recommend having 2 skeins each of the two colors. It makes it so much easier to work with two strands at the same time from two different skeins.
CO 39
R1: Knit 39
R2: K1, KFB, K , KFB, Place Marker, K1, Place Marker, KFB, K , KFB, K1
R3: Knit (knit all odd rounds)
R4: K1, KFB, K to 1 st before M, KFB, K3, KFB, K to 2 st before end, KFB, K1
K6: K1, KFB, K to 2 st before M, KFB, K5, KFB, K to 2 st before end, KFB, K1
R8: K1, KFB, K to 3 st before M, KFB, K7, KFB, K to 2 st before end, KFB, K1
R10: K2, KFB, K to 4 st before M, KFB, K9, KFB, K to 3 st before end, KFB, K2
R12: K2, KFB, K to 5 st before M, KFB, K11, KFB, K to 3 st before end, KFB, K2
Sole should measure about 6” x 12-13” and be 59 st on needles.
If you want these to be bigger you can do another knit round and then repeat round 12 to have 63 sts on needles.
Change color
R13: Knit 59 st
R14: Purl 59 st
R15: Knit to 1 st past second marker, turn, sl 1, P4, turn, sl 1, K3, ssk, K1, turn, sl 1, K5, ssk, K1, turn, sl 1, P6, P2 tog, P1, turn, sl 1, K7, ssk, K1 continue working the short rows until you reach the ends.
Slipping 1 will bring yarn to working position and the decreases will close the gaps caused by turning. Just always knit or purl together the gaps as you encounter them and work one K or P st past the decrease and eventually you will reach the ends.
K16, 17: Knit a row and purl a row then bind off the 31 (35) sts.
Seam the back few rows. Felt!
There are many ways to felt but I find what works the best for me is top loading washer with a few items to be felted and an old pair of jeans washed on hot with a normal load sized amount of laundry soap.

I made a pair with single stranded yarn and also a pair with two strands of yarn. The single strand of yarn felted up nicely and was the right size after one round through the washer but is definitely a thinner fabric. The double stranded pair is nice and thick but one round through the washer was not enough to felt it down to the right size. I can wear them with my thick SmartWool socks but they could be a size smaller. Another round in the machine should do the trick.

I LOVE these slippers. They are so WARM and comfortable. And darling, adorable to look at.

I wear a size 7-8 1/2 depending on the shoe style but you can control (sort of) the sizing with the felting process. For an average size 8 make the sole the 59 sts and for size 9-10 do another row with increases for a total of 63 sts. For smaller sizes, 5-6 stop at 55 sts for the sole. The upper part will be worked the same because it's just short rows worked across what's available.

Single stranded version.

Two strand version.


I am walking on carpet so I have not had any issues with being slippery but if you have wood floors or maybe tile, you can sew some scrap leather on the bottom for traction or those glue dots for grip.

Wool felting shrinks more height-wise than it does width-wise. (Over rows vs over stitches.) A good formula I found:
Felting good dense fabric:
Stitches (desired size) x 1.2 = pre-felted size
Rows (desired size) x 1.42 = pre-felted size

Felting very dense fabric:
Stitches (desired size) x 1.43 = pre-felted size
Rows (desired size) x 1.78 = pre-felted size




Sunday, December 9, 2018

Five Versions of Crocheted Snowflakes Plus the Russian Version


Crocheted Snowflakes


It’s that time of year! We’re thinking of festive holidays and snowy weekends curled on the sofa with hot chocolate or maybe a glass of wine and we’re looking around the room wondering what is missing in our holiday decor.  Snowflakes. You can never have too many snowflakes.

Many years ago when I worked at a bank on the West Coast I made paper snowflakes during downtime, sometimes others would pitch in creating our little 6-sided unique creations. Just fold the paper correctly and cut away, always being careful not to cut all the way through a folded side. No matter how hard you try, you can never get two exactly the same. That’s because snowflakes are unique!

Then I would hop up on the counters and hang the snowflakes with string and bent paperclips from the grating along the air vents, as well as cover the walls and bullet proof glass between us and our customers.

Sometimes it looked like a blizzard hit! That’s what people would say when they came in. They loved it though. All our customers looked forward to the paper snowflake blizzard for a few weeks out of the year.

I was in the mood to make some more permanent, crocheted snowflakes and came up with 5 different versions of some easy to crochet snowflakes that whip up super fast and easy once you get them down pat. These can be made with any yarn and appropriate sized crochet hook. I did the initial “let’s try this and see what it looks like” snowflakes with worsted weight yarn and then went back and did another one with Aunt Lydia’s metallic 10 crochet thread and a small crochet hook.

You can block them and stiffen them with a commercial stiffener, diluted white glue, or a sugar syrup solution or leave them soft and floppy.

Every snowflake version is unique, though with a pattern each snowflake of a version turns out the same. Try all 5 versions for a variety of unique snowflakes. I came across a video on YouTube in Russian and included the notes I made from that as well. The Russian version was a bit more work even though it’s still only 4 rounds but I included it because it’s a lovely, lovely snowflake and I will be making more.

A few notes:
Ch1 or ch2 at beginning of round is normally ignored in counts and ignored when joining. Slip into the first sc or dc of each round when joining.
After joining, slip stich your way up to the 3ch (or 5ch or 8ch) spaces that form the 6 snowflake points. All the work is done in those spaces that form the snowflake points.




Version 1.0
Ch 5, slip st to join
R1: 12 sc, slip in 1st sc to join
R2: ch2, 2dc in same st, 3ch, skip a sc, *2 dc in same st, 3ch, skip a st, repeat from * sl st into 1st dc to join and slip st to reach ch3 space
R3: ch2 (4dc, 3ch, 4dc) in each ch3 space, slip to join
R4: sl st to ch3 space, 2ch, *2dc, ch5, sc, ch 5 repeat from *
R5: *(1dc, 1trc) in same st, 3ch, sc in space, 3ch, sc, 3ch, repeat from *


Version 2.0
Ch5, slip st to join
R1: 12 sc, slip st in 1st sc to join
R2: 2dc in 1 st, 3ch, skip 1 sc, *2dc in 1 st, ch3, skip 1 sc repeat from * slip st to join
R3: (3dc, 5ch, 3dc, ch1) repeat in each ch3 space


Version 3.0
5 ch, slip st to join
R1: 12 sc
R2: *2dc in 1 st, skip 1sc, ch3 repeat from * slip st into 1st dc and slip st up to point
R3: 2dc, 1trc, 3ch, 1 trc, 2dc, 1ch in each ch3 space
R4: *2ch, 1 trc, 3ch, slip 1, 3ch, slip 1, 3ch, slip 1, 2ch, slip into base of trc, slip st to next point (ch3 space) and repeat from *



Version 4.0
Form magic loop,
R1: work (2dc, 3ch) x6
Join with slip st, work slip st to 3ch space, including 3ch space
R2: (2 trc, 3ch, 2 trc, 1ch) in each ch3 space, slip st to join
R3: (1dc, 3ch, 1dc, 5ch, 1dc, 3ch, 1dc, 2ch) in each ch3 space




Version 5.0
Ch5, slip st to join
R1: 12sc, slip st in 1st sc to join
R2: 2ch, 2dc in same st, 5ch, skip sc, *2dc in same st, 5ch, repeat from *
slip st in 1st dc to join and slip st to get to ch3 space
R3: All in same ch5 space: *2sc, 2ch, 1dc, 2ch, 1sc,3ch, 1trc, 3ch, sc, 2ch, 1dc, 2ch, 2sc repeat from * in every ch5 space




Russian Video Version
Form magic loop
R1: (8ch, 1sc) x6 in magic loop
Slip st in 1st sc to join and slip up to top of ch8
R2: 2ch, 2dc, 3ch, 3dc, *3dc, 3ch, 3dc* repeat between * 5x for a total of 6 points
R3: 2ch, 1dc, 3ch, 2dc, 5ch, 2dc, 3ch, 2dc repeat 5x
R4: *6sc, 2sc, 2ch, 1dc, 2ch, 1sc, 3ch, 1trc, 3ch, sc, 2ch, 1dc, 2ch, 2 sc, 6sc* x6
(the 6 sc are over ch3 space between points)

Also, for future reference, a crocheted star pattern that I received from a fellow crocheter.



R1: ch5, slip to join
R2: ch2, 1dc, ch2, (2dc, ch2)4x slip to join (there will be five points)
slip st your way to the ch2 space.
R3: ch2, 2dc, ch2, in ch2 space, (3dc, ch2)4x slip st to join
slip st your way to the ch2 space
R4: ch2, 3dc, ch2, in ch2 space, (4dc, ch2) 4x slip st to join
cut thread/yarn and weave in end at the center. Use remaining tail to create a loop for a hanger. You can stiffen these if you want.