One-Hour Banded Rolled Brim Chunky Cozy Hat

Knitting the 1-hour hat.

I love this hat. It knits up so fast and is warm and cushy. The perfect last-minute gift. From picking up the yarn to cast on to all ends weaved in, each one took less than an hour to knit. If you’re a slower knitter, it can still be done in an evening. It’s made with a bulky yarn on big needles so goes fairly quickly. Even if it takes you more than an hour, it’s a lovely, warm hat.

I wanted to use up leftover yarn from last year’s fox, wolf, and monster hoods so decided to make some hats. If you make it solid, it will take almost the full skein of Lion Brand’s Hometown USA bulky yarn. Since I was using up partial skeins I got creative in merging two or more colors. I think they turned out rather nice. They are so warm and cozy soft. I made many of them to give away but I will confess that I ended up keeping two for myself. The purple, solid hat is Cozy Wool and is one I kept for myself.

Size 15 needles, both 16” circular and either DPNs or long circular

Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Gauge- 2 st per inch

Basic Hat Pattern Using One Color of Yarn

Cast on 42 stitches

Place stitch marker and join, being careful that cast on row has not twisted.

Knit 3-4 rows

Work 1x1 rib for two rows (k1, p1)

The rib acts as a brake to stop the rolled brim

Knit until 5-6” from ribbing rows.

Start decreasing by *k5, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row

Knit the next row

Now *k3, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row, knitting any stragglers that don’t fit in count

(I usually switch to longer circular needles at this point, to work magic loop. If you're using DPNs you can change to DPNs at this point. Gets a bit tight to work on the 16" now.)

Then *k2, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row, again just knit final stitches as needed

Now *k1, k2tog, repeat from * to end

Finally, *k2tog, repeat from *

Cut tail at least 8” long, string onto tapestry needle, thread yarn through remaining live stitch loops and pull snuggly to close hole. Stitch into inside of hat and weave in tail securely, trim remaining tail.

String cast on tail onto tapestry needle and insert into first stitch to close any gap from the join then on inside of hat weave in end and trim tail.

For green hat with brown band and green mini hearts:

Start the basic hat pattern then:

Knit green for 2-3” from rib rows, change to brown yarn but don’t cut green yarn.

Knit 2-3 rows of brown

*Slip stitch, knit with green, repeat from * across row

Knit 2-3 rows of brown

Switch to green and continue.

Switch to pink and continue until it measures 5-6” from rib then start decrease rows

For Pink Hat

Start the basic hat pattern then:

Knit a few rows from rib

Change to brown but don’t cut pink yarn, Knit 2-3 rows brown

*Slip 1 stitch, knit with pink, repeat from * across row

Knit 2 rows brown

*knit with pink, slip 1 stitch, repeat from * across row

Knit 2 rows brown

*Slip 1 stitch, knit with pink, repeat from * across row

Knit 2-3 rows brown.

Switch to pink and continue until it measures 5-6” from rib then start decrease rows.

If you’re using up scraps, be creative in the bands across center of hat. For example, in the brown and ivory hat I had balls of each that were similar size so the band is fairly large.

It should be fun. Be creative with color combinations.

Rain Forest Crocodile Stitch Hat Using Unforgettable Yarn

Still my favorite hat. It's so light you almost forget that you're wearing it, except when you're out in public and people stop you and comment on how much they love your hat. Yet it's so warm that I can wear it even in the heart of a Minnesota winter. The biggest problem I have with this hat is that Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable has so many fun and delightful color combinations that I want to make a hat in each of those flavors! It's not a quick project but it is rather basic once you master the petal. There are a lot more stitches than normal to cover the area because each petal is created with dcs worked along the posts of dcs in the V-stitch foundation row. It will take almost the entire skein of yarn to make the one hat. It's not as complicated as it looks and I think an experienced beginner would easily manage this project.

Here's the basic rundown of how I made the hat. Feel free to use pattern for hats you plan to sell but be sure to acknowledge that you got the pattern from Cosmic Pony.

Crochet Hook size 00 (or size E can work)
Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable yarn --1 skein

Part of the charm of the hat is the yarn weight and color, so stick with this yarn to match pictured results. If you have a favorite yarn you want to use, keep in mind that a heavier yarn will impact appearance as well as gauge.

Gauge: 5 dcs/inch

Start with a Foundation row in multiples of 6. The Foundation stitch is when the chaining and sc rows are worked together at the same time. The benefit of this is a nice, stretchy, finished edge. If you don't know how to make a Foundation row, chain desired number of stitches, slip to join, and sc across for a row.

Create Foundation row of 96 st or 102 st. I initially used 102 for almost all the hats I made but switched to  96 st to tighten it up a bit because over time the hat will stretch out a bit. The difference is minimal and I mention the two numbers because I have a small head so someone with an average head or larger head would prefer the 102 starting number. The best way to find out your initial stitch count is to do 96 and wrap around your head to see if it fits.

After Foundation row, work 1 dc in each st around. 96 (or 102) dc total. Slip to join.

The crocodile stitch has two rounds, the V-stitch round which creates the foundation for the petal stitches and then the petal stitch rounds.

V-stitch Round:
Ch4, dc in same stitch. skip 2 st, *(dc, ch1, dc) in same stitch. skip 2, repeat from * to end. slip into ch4 space to join. (You can slip into 3rd ch but I just slip into the space.)

Petal Round:
Ch3, 3 dc down side of first post of V-stitch, ch1, 4 dc up side of second post of V-stitch. Skip a V-stitch and work 4 dcs down first post of V-stitch, ch1, 4 dcs up second post of V-stitch. Continue working 4 dcs down first post, ch1, and 4 dcs up second post of every other V-stitch. At the end of the round slip into 3rd ch that counted as 1st dc on post of the first V-stitch and also into the V-stitch's ch1 space behind, to join.

V-stitch Round:
Ch4, dc into same stitch. This counts as the first V-stitch for this round. Work a V-stitch (1dc, ch1, 1dc) into center of next petal. (Center is the ch1 space in the V-stitch that creates the base for the petal.) Then V-stitch (1dc, ch1, 1dc) into the space between petals, being sure to insert crochet hook into the ch1 space of the V-stitch that was skipped on the row before. So, when you insert crochet hook into ch1 space be sure to go under the the yarn where the first and last dcs of two petals meet, to catch it. When you reach the end of the round, slip into ch4 space. You will have the same # of V-stitches in every round of V-stitches and same # of petals in every round of petals. The petals will be offset.

Continue working V-stitch rounds and petal rounds until you have completed 9 rows of Petals. Slip to join.

Ch2. Work 96 (102) dc. Work 2 dc in same stitch, 1 dc into side of 1st dc going down the post, being sure to catch stitch behind petal also, 2 dc in center hole of petal, 1 dc into side of last dc going up the post, 2 dc between petals,. Continue working dc across last row of petals, slip into 1st dc to join. (ignore ch2 when joining.)
In simple terms, dc across the round, placing the dcs to provide even, complete coverage. It just so happens that doing 2dc in petal centers and between petals with 1dc between petal centers and petal edges provides the complete, even coverage.

ch2, 5dc, decr, 5dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, 3dc, decr, 3dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, 2dc, decr, 2dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, 2dc, decr, 2dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, decr in every st around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, triple decr in every st around. cut yarn, leaving tail, weave yarn through tops of remaining sts and pull tight to close top.

decr:=yarn over for dc but only work first step, not second step to complete stitch, which leaves 3 loops on crochet hook. yo, work first step of next dc, yo, pull through all five loops. 2 sts have become 1 st.
triple decr= same as decr but do it over 3 sts instead of just 2 sts. 3 sts have become 1 st.
V-stitch= a dc stitch, ch1, and another dc stitch worked in same stitch. Forms a V.
dc= double crochet stitch
sl= slip stitch
Crocodile/Petal Stitch= 4dc worked on post of right leg of V stitch, ch1, 4dc worked on post of left leg of V stitch
st= stitch
sts= stitches

I steam blocked these. Blocking really helps finish the hats. Not only does it give the yarn a nice sheen, it pulls everything into place. The petals become crisp and lay flat, as they should. It really makes a difference.

Moonlight Wolf Knit Poncho with Fur Collar

Knit Poncho with Fur Collar

I made this lovely poncho for a Christmas gift for a family member and liked it so much that I had to make one for myself also. It is so warm and lovely.

I have included instructions for three sizes but really it’s a one size fits all. The three sizes affect the length of the poncho but you can wear any of the sizes whether you are slim or matronly in size.

 

Here’s the short version: Gage doesn’t really matter but it’s about 2 st per inch if you want to check and adjust if you are way different. Use size 13 needles. Circular needles work best since there’s a lot of fabric resulting. There is a garter edge while the main body is done in linen stitch. Constant increases every other row work to offset the yarn bars that are created when slipping the stitch with the yarn in front. For the rows worked without increases (across the shoulders) knit an extra stitch if necessary to maintain bar placement.

Cast on 3 stitches and knit the front and back of 1^st and 3^rd stitch then knit back then knit first stitch, increase with KFB in second stich and second to last stitch on right side rows and knit wrong side rows until you have 7 stitches. We are creating the garter stitch border. Start slipping first stitch of every row now and do an increase by doing KFB in center stitch of this row to give us even number of stitches.

Continue slipping first stitch, increase in second stitch, knit to last two stitches, increase in second to last stitch, knit last stitch on right side and knit across on wrong side until you have 12 stitches. Now slip 1^st stitch, increase in second stitch, knit 2 stitches, *slip a stich with the yarn in front, k1* twice, knit 2 st, increase, knit last stitch and purl back on wrong side. Next round will be slip 1^st stitch, increase in second stitch, knit 2 stitches, *slip a stich with the yarn in front, k1* three times, knit 2 st, increase, knit last stitch and purl back on wrong side. Continue doing this until you have 80 stitches for small, 90 stitches for medium, and 100 stitches for large. Work 6 rows without increasing, paying attention to bars from slipped stitches to maintain offset and knitting an extra stitch if necessary to maintain pattern. You can insert a stitch marker on either side of center stitch at this point.

Now we’re going to bind off 26 stitches in center for neck hole. Working in pattern, slip 1, k4, *slip 1 with yarn in front, k1* until you reach the 13^th stitch from center. Bind off 26 stitches, continue working in pattern to end of row. Purl back, cast on 26 stitches, purl rest of the way back. Work 6 rows without increasing then start working decrease in place of increase. Slip 1^st stitch, k2tog, knit 3, *slwyf, k1* to last 6 stitches, knit 3, ssk (slip 1^st then 2^nd stitch and knit them together through back loops). Continue until you have 12 stitches then continue in garter stitch, binding off last three stitches.

For neck, pickup up 60 stitches (26 on each side and 2 at each end) with main yarn, join and knit one round, decreasing out extra picked up stitches by K2tog at 24^th stitch and 26^th stitch and 56^th and 38^th stitch. Now add fur yarn and knit with both yarns for eight rows (will use up almost whole skein of fur yarn) and bind off loosely.

Very straightforward and I think even an experienced beginner will find this easy enough to do. If knitting in the round is intimidating you could knit back and forth for neck and seam it up the back. Or crochet the neck if you know how to crochet. The fur can be a bit tough to crochet because the stitches are buried in the fur.

Moonlight Wolf Knit Poncho with Fur Collar

Suitable for experienced beginner.

Detailed pattern:

Size 13

Yarn used:

”Moonlight” Chunky Wool Ease 5-6 skeins (5oz, 87 yds each and

Red Heart Boutique Fur 1 skein (3.5 oz/11 yds) 1 skein

Gauge: 2.5 st/inch

CO3

R1: KFB, K1, KFB

R2: K5

R3: K1, KFB, K1, KFB, K1

R4: K7

R5: K1, KFB, K1, KFB, K1, KFB, K1

R6: sl1, K9

R7: Sl1, KFB, K6, KFB, K1

R8: sl1, K11

R9: sl1, KFB, K2, (sl1wyf, K1) x2, K2, KFB, K1

R10: sl1, K4, P4, K5

R11: sl1, KFB, K2, (sl1wyf, K1)x3, K2, KFB, K1

R12: sl1, K4, P6, K5

R13: sl1, KFB, K2, (sl1wyf, K1) x4, K2, KFB, K1

R14: sl1, K4, P8, K5

Continue repeating rows 13 and 14, working (sl1wyf, K1) linen stitch repeats between garter borders on right side and purling stitches between garter borders on wrong side until you have 80 (90, 100) stitches on needle. Finish with purled side.

(80 stitches is for small, 90 for medium, and 100 for large)

Work 6 more rows without increasing, repeating these 3x

RS: sl1, K4, (sl1wyf, K1) to last five, K5.

And adjusting as needed to offset sl1wyf from row above by knitting a stitch before beginning linen stitch.

WS: K5, Purl across to last five st, K5.

RS: sl1, K4, repeat (sl1wyf, K1) to 13^th stitch from center. (Depending on size you might end on slipped stitch or knit stitch here). Bind off 26 stitches.  Knit 1 if needed to maintain offset or resume with linen stitch (sl1wyf, K1) to last five stitches, K5.

WS: sl1, K4, Purl across. Cast on 26 stitches. Use knit cast on. Purl to last 5 stitches, K5.

Work 6 more rows, repeating these 3x

RS: sl1, K4, (sl1wyf, K1) to last five, K5.

And adjusting if needed to offset sl1wyf from row above by knitting a stitch first.

WS: sl1, K4, Purl across to last five sts, K5.

Now we’re going to work a decrease wherever there was an increase on the first half.

RS: sl1, K2tog, K3, (sl1wyf, K1) x as needed, to last six sts, K3, SSK, K1

Ws: sl1, K4, Purl across to last 5 sts, K5

Continue working a 5 stitch garter border with decreases at second stitch, linen stitch across, and decrease on second to last stitch on right side.  Then 5 stitch garter border, purl across, and 5 stitch garter border on wrong side until you are down to 12 stitches.

RS: sl1, K2tog, Knit to second to last, SSK, K1

WS: sl1, knit across

Continue until 3 sts remain, bind off.

For fur cowl around neckline; pick up 60 stitches (26 on each side and 2 at each end) with main yarn, join and knit one round, decreasing out extra picked up stitches by K2tog at 24^th stitch and K2tog at 26^th stitch as well as at 56^th and 58^th stitch. Now add fur yarn and knit with both yarns for eight rows (will use up almost whole skein of fur yarn) being careful not to drop one of the yarns while working both together. Bind off loosely.

K= knit

P= purl

KFB= knit in front and back of same stitch

SSK= slip a stitch knitwise twice, put the two sts back on left needle and knit through back

K2tog= knit two stitches together

sl= slip stitch purlwise

slwyf= slip stitch purlwise with yarn held to the front

linen stitch= alternate slwyf and K1 stitches.

garter= knit on both right and wrong sides

Scrappy Crocheted Chunky Cat Bed

I wanted to make a cat cave for my cat. He loves boxes. Paper bags he’s sort of meh about. Sometimes he wants to explore a paper bag but then again he will often ignore them. But boxes are his passion. Some would call boxes his obsession.

So, the cat cave. They look very intriguing if you adopt a cat perspective. You know, when you look at it you are convinced that the cat will spend many glorious hours luxuriating in cat cave heaven. I just could not figure out how to crochet one and have the sides stay upright, to hold the ceiling off the floor.

There were the wool felted ones that looked quite insanely elaborate, expensive, and time consuming and even messy. Anyone who owns a cat knows—if you spent 40 hours making something for your cat you will be lucky if he enjoys it for an hour.

Yeah. So I wanted something quick and to the point. I decided to use up leftover yarn. Again, tough to bring myself to go out and spend a bunch of dough on something I have no idea if he’ll like and use or not. I bought him a cat bed for Christmas one year and he used it for two weeks then never again. The following year I gave it away.

It’s a simple, straightforward pattern. Using chunky yarn and a large crochet hook (J) I chained 4, slip stitch to join and worked 12 sc in loop. It’s a constantly progressive increase to keep it flat. So, second round, 2 sc in each sc, third round 2 sc in every other st, fourth round, 2 sc in every third stitch, then 2 sc in every fourth stitch, and so on until you have the diameter that you want.

My cat is a large boy. Everyone asks if he’s Maine Coon. He really looks like he could be but his mom was a petite Siamese stray. A blue point Siamese. Dad could have been Maine Coon, I guess. He’s 14 pounds of cat under all that hair.

So, when you get your desired diameter (I worked to 18”) do a few rows of straight sc without increases. This creates the sides. I did about 3”. That’s about five rows. You’re pretty much making a crocheted basket with short sides.

I finished it with the crab stitch (aka reverse sc st) and he loves his crocheted chunky cat bed. I made it in February this year and he might go a week or two without using it but he always goes back to it. He just loves it.

The cat hair means it's a well loved and used cat bed. Yeah, whenever I ran out of one yarn I just started the next, using up as much as I could. The cat does not mind at all.

Since I used leftovers I don’t know how much yarn it took. If you want to make it and need to buy the yarn I would say to expect it to take at least 6-7 skeins of the 4 oz/113g 64 yd/59m chunky style. It will vary with how big you want the bed to be and how high the sides. There’s not a lot of yarn on those skeins. Better yet, go ahead and use up the odds and ends from other projects.

Giraffe Print Canvas Tote

So, I found this lovely giraffe print canvas to make a laptop case and had enough leftover to make a cross body bag and a tote. The tote was supposed to be a purse but I did not measure, just used up what was left over. It's a lovely tote so I am glad that it worked out that way.

The brown microsuede is a perfect match for the brown of the giraffe print. I used it for an accent edge at the bottom and also for the straps.

This is the W gusset. It's another method to create sides and base of bottom. Instead of marking number of inches, lining up seams, sewing triangle, and cutting excess fabric/interfacing you just fold the fabric into a W and sew it one time. This results in a triangle of fabric on the outside of the bag, a nice design feature.

I like contrasting fabric edging internal pockets. Not only does it give the interior a pop of unexpected color, it makes it easier to see pocket edges inside bag.

They are simple to do. For the welt zipper pocket, sew a rectangle of complementary colored fashion fabric to end of welting fabric, big enough to cover the exterior welt. For the patch pocket, I cut a 3" strip and fold it into thirds and stitch it onto top of pocket before attaching to lining. In this bag I actually used the complementary fabric for the pocket itself and the lining fabric for the trim.

I mostly edge the pockets for stability and using different fabrics is just for fun. And it does make it easier to see inside bag.

This is a simple tote bag, just rectangles sewn together. The key is the heavy stabilizer interfacing and the fun is in all the little details.

Giraffe Print Canvas Cross Body Purse

Several months ago I bought a fun giraffe print canvas fabric to make a laptop bag. The colors were just delicious and made me happy. That's what often motivates me to select a fabric, that it tickles my happy bone.

Since the fabric was quite wide and I bought over a yard to make sure that I had enough, I had a lot leftover. So I made a cross body purse. It is the same dimensions as the cross body purse I made a few years ago and have been using since making it but I went for a bit deeper width.

Notice the welt pocket? That's for the phone. I made it large enough to accommodate even the largest phones on the market now.

With the leftover fabric after making the laptop case and cross body, I made a full-sized purse. More to come on that.

Helpful Hint for Beginning Knitters

When someone wants to learn how to knit I am always happy to show them the ropes. Once I even used two pencils to demonstrate because we didn’t have needles at hand. Pencils work.

So many people grow frustrated and give up because the act of twisting yarn around two pokey sticks in a uniform fashion doesn’t come naturally. Or they are afraid to start because they bought a boucle or expensive wool yarn that doesn’t hold up well to continuous frogging.

I always recommend to new knitters to buy a cheap skein of yarn, a smooth yarn that will hold up to abuse, and practice, practice, practice. Make swatches. Knit and tear it out. All knitting is is knits or purls. Nothing else really. A cable is just knit or purl stitches out of order. Knitting two together is still just a knit stitch. You just happen to insert needle into two stitches instead of just one. So knit and purl until it feels comfortable and your rows and stitches are nice and uniform.

Once you feel comfortable working knits and purls with the cheap, smooth yarn, bring out that specialty, expensive yarn and your first project will go so much easier.

Even for more advanced knitters, it's always a good idea to do swatches with new patterns or new techniques. I often swatch with new patterns so that I get a feel for what's happening. Of course you should swatch for gauge but it's also helpful to swatch for learning the pattern.

Quilters will pick up a pencil and paper and draw the design they want to quilt onto the quilt before actually going to the machine because physical action creates a memory. It's the same with knitting. I recommend the cheap yarn for playing because then it's little investment and you're more likely to be free about experiment when there's less investment.

So pick up your needles, whether straight, cabled, or double pointed and experiment, practice, and lose all fear!

RAW Bracelet I am going to call Prince Theme RAW Bracelet

 Right Angle Weave Bracelet with 108 Swarovski Crystals in a Purple Theme

I was looking for a pattern or instructions for a cubic right angle weave cording with a daisy pattern and somehow stumbled on a right angle weave bracelet that was so beautiful that I had to make one. The original bracelet in tutorial had goldish/brassy size 11.0 seed beads with a variety of crystals she called an autumn mix. I used a deep purple size 11.0 seed bead for the base and selected misc leftover Swarovski crystals in a purple/pink theme.

There are 108 crystals in this bracelet. That's a lot of sparkle!

It's so beautiful!

After finishing it I made a two row foundation with silver size 11.0 seed beads and all clear with AB crystals. Just thrilled with the resulting bracelet! The second one went a lot faster. The silver seed beads were easier to see and with a bit of practice the right angle weave pattern went quite smoothly.

View of the cubic right angle foundation on the right.

Here is the link to the original tutorial on YouTube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa8jkU93bnI

Collapsible Fabric Basket with Snaps for Travel or Holidays

Years ago my elderly neighbor in Oregon made some fabric baskets with Christmas fabrics. They had ribbons sewn into the corners, which when tied lifted the corners, creating a basket for Christmas treats and odds n ends. After Christmas the ribbons are untied and the basket can be stored flat for storage. They were very handy but the ribbons were annoying.

Here is an updated version of the foldaway fabric basket. They can be made in any size but we will start with a finished 6" basket.

I use one for stitch markers. I left a corner unsnapped so that I can reach into it easier while I'm knitting. It sits on a side table a bit higher than my head so leaving one corner open allows me to see what size stitch marker I am reaching for.

Let's start with supplies. We're going to make a 6" basket. The base will be 6". For a 6" basket, cut a 10 1/2" fashion fabric and a 10 1/2" lining fabric. Cut a corresponding piece of fusible interfacing to iron onto the back of the fashion fabric square. Cut a piece of heavy interfacing 6" square. You will need 8 snap sets also.

After ironing on interfacing, place right sides of squares facing and sew around, using a 1/4" seam allowance and leaving a 3-4" gap on one side for turning. This creates a simple pocket. Trim corners and turn. Slide the 6" square of heavy interfacing inside and position in center. Hint: If you want to place the heavy interfacing before turning, use a glue stick to hold heavy interfacing in place on wrong side of fashion fabric/interfacing before sewing sides. Either way works about the same. 

Sew around the heavy interfacing. I used a stitch that catches the interfacing every few stitches but you can also use a straight stitch. If you use a straight stitch stay right on the edge of the heavy interfacing. You can see the stitching in the picture above. This gives the basket a firm base.

Topstitch around the edge of the turned out pocket, being sure to catch the opening left for turning.

Measure and mark 1/2" from topstitching and 1" from side on both sides of all four corners. I use ink because it's clear to see and the snap will cover the ink. Attach snaps, being sure to have fastenings facing inside. 

Notice the pencil with its eraser? When I place the poky prong piece of the snap pair I use the eraser to press the prongs through the fabric for easier placement of the other half of the snap. I then use the snap pliers to press snaps together and follow up with a snap tool and rubber mallet to make sure each snap part is secure.

You can also make these portable baskets magnetic. There are multiple reasons for a magnetic basket but the first thing that pops to mind is for minding sewing pins and/or needles. Slide a piece of sheet magnet with adhesive onto the center of the heavy interfacing (glue side down on interfacing and magnet facing up to lining fabric) before sewing around the heavy interfacing and closing pocket.

Adjusting to make custom sizes:

For whatever base size you want add 4 1/2" and cut squares

.

Example, For a 5" basket, cut 9 1/2" squares.

For a 12" basket cut 16 1/2" squares.

For a 8" basket cut 12 1/2" squares.

The 4 1/2" is 2" sides and 1/4" seam allowance.

The heavy interfacing size will match whatever the basket base size will be.

When the basket is not in use it can be unsnapped and put away flat. Great for travel crafting, holiday baskets that are only out during the holiday season, or for entertaining when space is limited. I am sure there are lots of other uses for them that make their flat storage ability quite useful.

Back From a Break

I did not mean to stay away so long. I had some minor medical issues. Nothing life altering but enough to keep me from working on projects and posting anything. Pain is something I can handle without drugs but does strongly impact my thinking and creative process.

Now that I am about recovered I have some projects in the works that I will photograph and post soon. I found a lovely, lovely fabric last year that I made a laptop carrying case with and there was enough left over for a cross-body purse and a tote-sized purse. It's a printed canvas so it's nice and sturdy. The pattern is giraffe, I think. It looks like a giraffe pattern. It's a lovely, deep brown and I paired it with a lovely deep brown suede cloth.

Next project instructions I plan to share is how to make a collapsible fabric basket. These are handy in many ways. I plan to use mine for when I attend the local knitting group. It lays flat for carrying in my bag and then I snap the corners together and I have a handy little basket to hold my stitch markers and other little items that can so easily go astray. You can also use them for holidays. Example, use a festive holiday fabric and use them for candies or other holiday items. For storage they will lay flat.

Using Heavy Duty Aluminum Foil for RFID Card Holder with Style and Fashion Fabric

With all the new cards having RFID chips there is a lot of concern about protecting them from skimming. I don't know how much a problem it really is but... it's always good to take precautionary steps, especially when it's something simple to do.



Simply wrapping your card(s) in tinfoil does the trick to protect the signal from being picked up by errant skimmers wandering the streets and malls of our neighbor hood. But, let's face it, wrapping our card(s) in tinfoil is not at all efficient, aesthetic, or realistic in our daily lives.


A year or two ago I played with tinfoil being incorporated into a card holder design that I use a lot to make some awesome card holders. It was a disaster. The holder had to be turned inside out after being sewn and the tinfoil crinkled, crackled, split, and was lumpy and bumpy and a royal pain in the tush. Just a mess!

I have toyed with possible designs since then. All in my head. Quite often when I am trying to fall asleep and my mind is picking up random thoughts instead of relaxing. Then I saw a demo for how to change heavy duty tinfoil from the fragile component it is to almost a fabric. Voila! It all fell into place.



Here are the steps to create a simple yet beautiful credit card holder that offers all the same benefits as wrapping in tinfoil.



You will need:
Sewing machine
scraps of fabric or leather for case shell and for lining.
Strapping/packing tape
Heavy duty aluminum foil
snap

I pulled fabric out of my scrap stash. It was fairly easy to find 5"x7" pieces. I even found a piece of leather in the bag that was big enough for one of these. If you use leather, add walking foot to the list of supplies.

Cut a 5"x7" fashion fabric and a 5"x7" liner fabric.

To create tab, go down 1" from top and over 2" from side and cut the edge off. Do the same for the other side. You can mark it if you want. I just lined up the fabric on the mat and put the ruler at the 1" and 2" marks and cut.



Now, with right sides facing, sew around the pieces. I used a 1/4" seam allowance. Leave a space open at the bottom. You could leave the whole bottom section unsewed but then you won't have the nice corners. At least I wouldn't. Maybe you could. It's just easier to start sewing about an 1" up along the bottom, turn and sew up the side, over the tab, down the other side, turn and sew about 1" along the other side of the bottom. Be sure to back tack when starting and ending.

We'll call this sewn result the envelope.



Be sure to trim the seam allowance along the envelope. I used pinking shears. This is helpful to reduce bulk when sewing up the card holder sides.



Now cut a 4"x7" piece of heavy duty aluminum foil. It has to be .27 microns thick. Reynolds Heavy Duty is thick enough.



Cover the aluminum foil with strapping tape. The kind I have is just shy of 2" wide. I put down a strip along the edge and then a second strip butting right up next to the first strip. Turn it over and cover the other side as well. Trip the tape covered piece of aluminum foil. I use my craft scissors for this, not the precious fabric scissors.



Turn the sewn fabric right side out. Poke out those holes and slide your thumb or a ruler or for the brave, the tips of the scissors, to smooth everything out. Really, you should iron it at this point but I will confess, for this fast, simple, only I will notice, project I did not iron it. If you feel the need to iron, go ahead and iron it.

Trim the top of the aluminum foil to match the shape of the tab. Trim the bottom of the aluminum foil to be just shorter than envelope. When you lay the tape covered foil on top of the envelope it should be about 1/4" thinner all around.



Now, gently bend the tape covered foil to slide it into fabric envelope. I just bring the sides together and leave the curved section between untouched. It should slide as easily as butter. Let go of the sides and nudge it into place.

Now sew the bottom closed. When you were ironing you could have ironed the seam allowance flat and that would be helpful right now. I just fold it in and hold it in place because I have done it thousands of times with many projects. Do a topstitch across the whole length of the bottom of the piece, being sure to sew close enough to the edge to catch the seam allowance.

Next, topstitch the tab. Fold the envelope so that the topstitched bottom is about 1/2" from the start of the tab. Sew the sides. I tried both a saddle stitch and a specialty zig zag stitch. Either works.



Now add a snap and it's done.



Options besides snaps:
If you want you could add a ponytail holder to top of tab before sewing liner and fashion fabric together to create envelope and add a button.
Sew velcro on inside of tab and outside of envelope bottom before sewing sides together.
Add a buttonhole on tab and sew a button on holder.

RFID and Aluminum Foil

When RFID (the chips in credit cards that send out a signal) first starting showing up there was a lot of talk about skimmers being used to snag info from your credit cards in your purse or wallet without you even knowing that someone had stolen that info. But a simple solution to protect your cards' info was to wrap them in tin foil.

Yeah, that's not realistic, is it? Besides looking rather, let's say, horrendous, unpeeling tinfoil from your credit card every time you want to use it isn't really logistically sensible. I decided to try to combine a wallet/card holder with tin foil. That did not work well. At all. In fact, it was quite a disaster.

Besides the tinfoil not wanting to cooperate when turning a sewn fabric wallet inside out... well, that was the stopper actually. After forcing it the tinfoil was so destroyed that the crumply mess was beside the point.

I decided recently to re-visit the RFID tinfoil card holder idea because of the sudden resurgence of cards with RFID chips embedded in them due to the need of credit card companies to have them now, not just an option.

I wracked my brain and wracked my brain for a solution which did not require forcing the tinfoil to be sewn into a wallet/card holder and forced to be turned inside out with the surrounding fabric. I have found a solution!!

There are quite a few discussions on whether tinfoil will even work to block the RFID signal but I have seen reliable articles saying that tinfoil does the trick, as long as it's at least .27mm thick. That's extra heavy duty Reynolds wrap.

So, experimenting begins! When I have the finished product I will post instructions and you can decide if you want to add a little touch of RFID insulation and protection to a card holder that will definitely be more appealing in functionality and aesthetics than simply wrapping your cards in tinfoil but with the same protection against skimmers.

Hint: The little remote shutter release pocket was what gave me the re-inspiration to give RFID protection another try.

Remote Shutter Release Carrying Case

I bought a wireless remote shutter release for my DSLR camera. I went with the off brand instead of the one made by the camera company because I saved $25.00 doing so. I am not sure why there is such a vast difference in price between the off brand and brand model. Less than $6 for off brand and $30 for brand model in local store. All it is is a switch, a signal to camera saying click the shutter. Both versions have instant release and 2 second delay. The one difference is that the brand model came with a little black carrying bag. The kind that is made of material that is that thin, wind breaker kind of fabric. Nothing special. Nothing worth $25.

So, I made a little case.

I had been playing with scraps of fabric and took one of those and added a 2" strip at each end to make up the difference in length. Cut a piece of lining to match size of outer shell. Sewed some velcro on the flap end and on the end tagged for body. Then did the pillowcase sewing. You know, put lining and shell right sides together and sewed around, leaving a 2-3" gap for turning. Then I sewed up the two sides to complete pouch, using a blanket stitch style stitch to catch the edges.

Voila! A lovely, personal pouch for storing the remote shutter release. The strap is a suede iCord attached to a stylish lobster claw. The ring enclosed in the tab sewn into the side is a jewelry finding, not a D ring. The lobster claw won't go over a D ring.

Very handy, very stylish, very economical, and very personal. I like it. Oh, and very simple, quick, and easy to make. I used the dimension from the little plastic bag around the remote shutter release and added seam allowances. It did not need to be as wide as it is but that was the size of the scrap quilting block I had sitting around so that's how wide it is.