Monday, January 9, 2017

Custom Design Your Own Reversible Fleece Winter Hat with Earflaps


Reversible, warm, and stylish with any fleece or comparable fabric that you choose.


This is my favorite accessory this winter. Winters get cold in Northern Minnesota so we're used to the cold. Accessories make the cold more bearable. This double layered fleece hat with ear flaps makes a -14 degrees Fahrenheit feel closer to a modest 0 degrees Fahrenheit.


The wind blows here. Wind chill factors bring that same -14 degrees Fahrenheit down to a -30 degrees. Cold that shakes you to the core. Again, totally modest feeling with this hat to keep the cold Minnesota wind off the ears and head.

You too can make this hat in any color you desire. The hat is completely reversible so you can use a neutral color on one side and a fun, vibrant color on the other side. You can even mix up the colors in the four crown pieces and headband. When you feel like a punch of color, wear the color side on the outside. If you're feeling a bit more moderate, wear the neutral color on the outside.

The hat is made of 4 pieces to make up the crown and one headband with earflaps part of the band. 

Here is how you design your own custom pattern:

I did my best to line up tissue paper with grid mat for measurement reference as often as possible so you can refer to grid.


All seams are calculated at 1/2" seam allowance for this hat pattern.

Start with 3 pieces of tissue paper. Cut 1 4"x 4", one 6" x 7", and one 3" x your desired width. I have a 20" head circumference, which is on the smaller side. I cut my band 3" x 21" to allow for seam allowance and to have a loose fit. Works perfectly for 20-22" heads. This will be cut out on the fold so mark one end with fold line.


Let's start with the ear flap. Fold the 4"x6" tissue paper in half lengthwise. Use a protractor or find a lid as I did to mark to round the outside corner.


Cut the corner off.


Tape the ear flap pattern piece to the headband pattern piece. Be sure to keep it to the back half of the headband. I taped it about 2-2 1/2" from back edge. That gives a good 4" in front of headband. Note the fold line on right side of headband pattern piece. This is the front of the hat.


Now the crown pieces. Fold 6"x7" pattern piece in half lengthwise. I trimmed a curve freehand but if you want you can use the image above to make marks along the outside edge of pattern piece and cut along those marks. 


Now lay a piece of tissue paper over headband and outline the headband pattern piece, curving connection between ear flap and headband. Just smooth the corners. Transfer fold mark as well. I also drew a reference line on back side just shy of 2" from edge to remind me to leave a gap for turning.


Mark your pattern pieces for grain line and stretch line. We want maximum stretch of fabric to go side to side. This is very important when making your hat. You can use other materials besides fleece. I used a faux fur fabric for the inside of the cow hat. It just has to have some stretch to it and that stretch needs to go side to side.



Now you're ready to cut out your pieces. You will need 1 headband piece of each outer fabric and lining fabric. 4 crown pieces of each outer fabric and lining fabric.

Headband: 1 outer fabric
                             1 lining/inner fabric
Crown: 4 outer fabric
                       1 lining/inner fabric




Fleece, fake fur, and sweatshirt fabric are good fabric choices.


Le'ts focus on one side, the outer side. Cut headband on fold and 4 pieces for crown. I put a pin near the bottom of each set of quarters because I find that once you sew 2 quads together it can be a bit confusing to recognize what is the top.

Sew one side of 2 crown pieces top to bottom, right sides facing. Sew second set of crown pieces, one side, top to bottom, right sides facing. Now place two halves together, matching seam at top, right sides facing, sew together.

Sew back edge of headband, right sides facing, to close headband.

Quarter pin headband to crown, starting with headband seam matching a crown seam. Then pin front of crown to front of headband. Then pin each side.

Sew headband to crown.


Now repeat steps for inner/lining.

Put two sides together, right sides facing, and sew along bottom side of headband, leaving a 2-3" gap in the back for turning. It will all fit in that small of a hole, yes. Once turned, smooth with fingers, point turner, or blunt tipped scissors to get all the bumps out of the way along the seam. Then top stitch. I top stitch close enough to the edge to close up the turning gap but you can stitch it by hand first if you want. Not necessary to hand stitch it closed though as the top stitching does a good job of closing the hole as long as you pay attention to where the hole is when sewing.


As I mentioned, I have a 20" head and this hat is comfortably loose on my head but does not cover my eyes like on this poor mannequin's head.

I didn't really pay attention to how much fleece it will take as I was using up fleece I had on hand. I would say that a quarter yard on a long bolted fabric for each side would likely do the trick. Nothing was taller than 8" in the pattern. Allow for more for fussy cutting or matching designs in the fabric. You could always create your custom pattern and take it with to the fabric shop to make sure that you have enough.

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