RAW Bracelet I am going to call Prince Theme RAW Bracelet

 Right Angle Weave Bracelet with 108 Swarovski Crystals in a Purple Theme

I was looking for a pattern or instructions for a cubic right angle weave cording with a daisy pattern and somehow stumbled on a right angle weave bracelet that was so beautiful that I had to make one. The original bracelet in tutorial had goldish/brassy size 11.0 seed beads with a variety of crystals she called an autumn mix. I used a deep purple size 11.0 seed bead for the base and selected misc leftover Swarovski crystals in a purple/pink theme.

There are 108 crystals in this bracelet. That's a lot of sparkle!

It's so beautiful!

After finishing it I made a two row foundation with silver size 11.0 seed beads and all clear with AB crystals. Just thrilled with the resulting bracelet! The second one went a lot faster. The silver seed beads were easier to see and with a bit of practice the right angle weave pattern went quite smoothly.

View of the cubic right angle foundation on the right.

Here is the link to the original tutorial on YouTube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa8jkU93bnI

Collapsible Fabric Basket with Snaps for Travel or Holidays

Years ago my elderly neighbor in Oregon made some fabric baskets with Christmas fabrics. They had ribbons sewn into the corners, which when tied lifted the corners, creating a basket for Christmas treats and odds n ends. After Christmas the ribbons are untied and the basket can be stored flat for storage. They were very handy but the ribbons were annoying.

Here is an updated version of the foldaway fabric basket. They can be made in any size but we will start with a finished 6" basket.

I use one for stitch markers. I left a corner unsnapped so that I can reach into it easier while I'm knitting. It sits on a side table a bit higher than my head so leaving one corner open allows me to see what size stitch marker I am reaching for.

Let's start with supplies. We're going to make a 6" basket. The base will be 6". For a 6" basket, cut a 10 1/2" fashion fabric and a 10 1/2" lining fabric. Cut a corresponding piece of fusible interfacing to iron onto the back of the fashion fabric square. Cut a piece of heavy interfacing 6" square. You will need 8 snap sets also.

After ironing on interfacing, place right sides of squares facing and sew around, using a 1/4" seam allowance and leaving a 3-4" gap on one side for turning. This creates a simple pocket. Trim corners and turn. Slide the 6" square of heavy interfacing inside and position in center. Hint: If you want to place the heavy interfacing before turning, use a glue stick to hold heavy interfacing in place on wrong side of fashion fabric/interfacing before sewing sides. Either way works about the same. 

Sew around the heavy interfacing. I used a stitch that catches the interfacing every few stitches but you can also use a straight stitch. If you use a straight stitch stay right on the edge of the heavy interfacing. You can see the stitching in the picture above. This gives the basket a firm base.

Topstitch around the edge of the turned out pocket, being sure to catch the opening left for turning.

Measure and mark 1/2" from topstitching and 1" from side on both sides of all four corners. I use ink because it's clear to see and the snap will cover the ink. Attach snaps, being sure to have fastenings facing inside. 

Notice the pencil with its eraser? When I place the poky prong piece of the snap pair I use the eraser to press the prongs through the fabric for easier placement of the other half of the snap. I then use the snap pliers to press snaps together and follow up with a snap tool and rubber mallet to make sure each snap part is secure.

You can also make these portable baskets magnetic. There are multiple reasons for a magnetic basket but the first thing that pops to mind is for minding sewing pins and/or needles. Slide a piece of sheet magnet with adhesive onto the center of the heavy interfacing (glue side down on interfacing and magnet facing up to lining fabric) before sewing around the heavy interfacing and closing pocket.

Adjusting to make custom sizes:

For whatever base size you want add 4 1/2" and cut squares

.

Example, For a 5" basket, cut 9 1/2" squares.

For a 12" basket cut 16 1/2" squares.

For a 8" basket cut 12 1/2" squares.

The 4 1/2" is 2" sides and 1/4" seam allowance.

The heavy interfacing size will match whatever the basket base size will be.

When the basket is not in use it can be unsnapped and put away flat. Great for travel crafting, holiday baskets that are only out during the holiday season, or for entertaining when space is limited. I am sure there are lots of other uses for them that make their flat storage ability quite useful.

Back From a Break

I did not mean to stay away so long. I had some minor medical issues. Nothing life altering but enough to keep me from working on projects and posting anything. Pain is something I can handle without drugs but does strongly impact my thinking and creative process.

Now that I am about recovered I have some projects in the works that I will photograph and post soon. I found a lovely, lovely fabric last year that I made a laptop carrying case with and there was enough left over for a cross-body purse and a tote-sized purse. It's a printed canvas so it's nice and sturdy. The pattern is giraffe, I think. It looks like a giraffe pattern. It's a lovely, deep brown and I paired it with a lovely deep brown suede cloth.

Next project instructions I plan to share is how to make a collapsible fabric basket. These are handy in many ways. I plan to use mine for when I attend the local knitting group. It lays flat for carrying in my bag and then I snap the corners together and I have a handy little basket to hold my stitch markers and other little items that can so easily go astray. You can also use them for holidays. Example, use a festive holiday fabric and use them for candies or other holiday items. For storage they will lay flat.

Using Heavy Duty Aluminum Foil for RFID Card Holder with Style and Fashion Fabric

With all the new cards having RFID chips there is a lot of concern about protecting them from skimming. I don't know how much a problem it really is but... it's always good to take precautionary steps, especially when it's something simple to do.



Simply wrapping your card(s) in tinfoil does the trick to protect the signal from being picked up by errant skimmers wandering the streets and malls of our neighbor hood. But, let's face it, wrapping our card(s) in tinfoil is not at all efficient, aesthetic, or realistic in our daily lives.


A year or two ago I played with tinfoil being incorporated into a card holder design that I use a lot to make some awesome card holders. It was a disaster. The holder had to be turned inside out after being sewn and the tinfoil crinkled, crackled, split, and was lumpy and bumpy and a royal pain in the tush. Just a mess!

I have toyed with possible designs since then. All in my head. Quite often when I am trying to fall asleep and my mind is picking up random thoughts instead of relaxing. Then I saw a demo for how to change heavy duty tinfoil from the fragile component it is to almost a fabric. Voila! It all fell into place.



Here are the steps to create a simple yet beautiful credit card holder that offers all the same benefits as wrapping in tinfoil.



You will need:
Sewing machine
scraps of fabric or leather for case shell and for lining.
Strapping/packing tape
Heavy duty aluminum foil
snap

I pulled fabric out of my scrap stash. It was fairly easy to find 5"x7" pieces. I even found a piece of leather in the bag that was big enough for one of these. If you use leather, add walking foot to the list of supplies.

Cut a 5"x7" fashion fabric and a 5"x7" liner fabric.

To create tab, go down 1" from top and over 2" from side and cut the edge off. Do the same for the other side. You can mark it if you want. I just lined up the fabric on the mat and put the ruler at the 1" and 2" marks and cut.



Now, with right sides facing, sew around the pieces. I used a 1/4" seam allowance. Leave a space open at the bottom. You could leave the whole bottom section unsewed but then you won't have the nice corners. At least I wouldn't. Maybe you could. It's just easier to start sewing about an 1" up along the bottom, turn and sew up the side, over the tab, down the other side, turn and sew about 1" along the other side of the bottom. Be sure to back tack when starting and ending.

We'll call this sewn result the envelope.



Be sure to trim the seam allowance along the envelope. I used pinking shears. This is helpful to reduce bulk when sewing up the card holder sides.



Now cut a 4"x7" piece of heavy duty aluminum foil. It has to be .27 microns thick. Reynolds Heavy Duty is thick enough.



Cover the aluminum foil with strapping tape. The kind I have is just shy of 2" wide. I put down a strip along the edge and then a second strip butting right up next to the first strip. Turn it over and cover the other side as well. Trip the tape covered piece of aluminum foil. I use my craft scissors for this, not the precious fabric scissors.



Turn the sewn fabric right side out. Poke out those holes and slide your thumb or a ruler or for the brave, the tips of the scissors, to smooth everything out. Really, you should iron it at this point but I will confess, for this fast, simple, only I will notice, project I did not iron it. If you feel the need to iron, go ahead and iron it.

Trim the top of the aluminum foil to match the shape of the tab. Trim the bottom of the aluminum foil to be just shorter than envelope. When you lay the tape covered foil on top of the envelope it should be about 1/4" thinner all around.



Now, gently bend the tape covered foil to slide it into fabric envelope. I just bring the sides together and leave the curved section between untouched. It should slide as easily as butter. Let go of the sides and nudge it into place.

Now sew the bottom closed. When you were ironing you could have ironed the seam allowance flat and that would be helpful right now. I just fold it in and hold it in place because I have done it thousands of times with many projects. Do a topstitch across the whole length of the bottom of the piece, being sure to sew close enough to the edge to catch the seam allowance.

Next, topstitch the tab. Fold the envelope so that the topstitched bottom is about 1/2" from the start of the tab. Sew the sides. I tried both a saddle stitch and a specialty zig zag stitch. Either works.



Now add a snap and it's done.



Options besides snaps:
If you want you could add a ponytail holder to top of tab before sewing liner and fashion fabric together to create envelope and add a button.
Sew velcro on inside of tab and outside of envelope bottom before sewing sides together.
Add a buttonhole on tab and sew a button on holder.

RFID and Aluminum Foil

When RFID (the chips in credit cards that send out a signal) first starting showing up there was a lot of talk about skimmers being used to snag info from your credit cards in your purse or wallet without you even knowing that someone had stolen that info. But a simple solution to protect your cards' info was to wrap them in tin foil.

Yeah, that's not realistic, is it? Besides looking rather, let's say, horrendous, unpeeling tinfoil from your credit card every time you want to use it isn't really logistically sensible. I decided to try to combine a wallet/card holder with tin foil. That did not work well. At all. In fact, it was quite a disaster.

Besides the tinfoil not wanting to cooperate when turning a sewn fabric wallet inside out... well, that was the stopper actually. After forcing it the tinfoil was so destroyed that the crumply mess was beside the point.

I decided recently to re-visit the RFID tinfoil card holder idea because of the sudden resurgence of cards with RFID chips embedded in them due to the need of credit card companies to have them now, not just an option.

I wracked my brain and wracked my brain for a solution which did not require forcing the tinfoil to be sewn into a wallet/card holder and forced to be turned inside out with the surrounding fabric. I have found a solution!!

There are quite a few discussions on whether tinfoil will even work to block the RFID signal but I have seen reliable articles saying that tinfoil does the trick, as long as it's at least .27mm thick. That's extra heavy duty Reynolds wrap.

So, experimenting begins! When I have the finished product I will post instructions and you can decide if you want to add a little touch of RFID insulation and protection to a card holder that will definitely be more appealing in functionality and aesthetics than simply wrapping your cards in tinfoil but with the same protection against skimmers.

Hint: The little remote shutter release pocket was what gave me the re-inspiration to give RFID protection another try.

Remote Shutter Release Carrying Case

I bought a wireless remote shutter release for my DSLR camera. I went with the off brand instead of the one made by the camera company because I saved $25.00 doing so. I am not sure why there is such a vast difference in price between the off brand and brand model. Less than $6 for off brand and $30 for brand model in local store. All it is is a switch, a signal to camera saying click the shutter. Both versions have instant release and 2 second delay. The one difference is that the brand model came with a little black carrying bag. The kind that is made of material that is that thin, wind breaker kind of fabric. Nothing special. Nothing worth $25.

So, I made a little case.

I had been playing with scraps of fabric and took one of those and added a 2" strip at each end to make up the difference in length. Cut a piece of lining to match size of outer shell. Sewed some velcro on the flap end and on the end tagged for body. Then did the pillowcase sewing. You know, put lining and shell right sides together and sewed around, leaving a 2-3" gap for turning. Then I sewed up the two sides to complete pouch, using a blanket stitch style stitch to catch the edges.

Voila! A lovely, personal pouch for storing the remote shutter release. The strap is a suede iCord attached to a stylish lobster claw. The ring enclosed in the tab sewn into the side is a jewelry finding, not a D ring. The lobster claw won't go over a D ring.

Very handy, very stylish, very economical, and very personal. I like it. Oh, and very simple, quick, and easy to make. I used the dimension from the little plastic bag around the remote shutter release and added seam allowances. It did not need to be as wide as it is but that was the size of the scrap quilting block I had sitting around so that's how wide it is.

Rainforest/Petal Crocodile Stitch Hat Pattern

I literally can't go out in public wearing this hat without someone coming up to me and complimenting me on it. I wear it all the time since making it in December. It's light and doesn't scrunch hair (no hat hair) while still keeping my head warm in deep Minnesota winters. When I first made it I expected it to be a nice spring hat but it's surprisingly warm for as light as it is on my head.

Here's the basic rundown of how I made the hat. Feel free to use pattern for hats you plan to sell but be sure to acknowledge that you got the pattern from Cosmic Pony.

Crochet Hook size 00 (or size E can work)
Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable yarn

Part of the charm of the hat is the yarn weight and color, so stick with this yarn to match pictured results. If you have a favorite yarn you want to use, keep in mind that a heavier yarn will impact appearance as well as gauge.

Gauge: 5 dcs/inch

Start with a Foundation row in multiples of 6. The Foundation stitch is when the chaining and sc rows are worked together at the same time. The benefit of this is a nice, stretchy, finished edge. If you don't know how to make a Foundation row, chain desired number of stitches, slip to join, and sc across for a row.

Create Foundation row of 96 st or 102 st. I initially used 102 for almost all the hats I made but switched to  96 st to tighten it up a bit because over time the hat will stretch out a bit. The difference is minimal and I mention the two numbers because I have a small head so someone with an average head or larger head would prefer the 102 starting number. The best way to find out your initial stitch count is to do 96 and wrap around your head to see if it fits.

After Foundation row, work 1 dc in each st around. 96 (or 102) dc total. Slip to join.

The crocodile stitch has two rounds, the V-stitch round which creates the foundation for the petal stitches and then the petal stitch rounds.

V-stitch Round:
Ch4, dc in same stitch. skip 2 st, *(dc, ch1, dc) in same stitch. skip 2, repeat from * to end. slip into ch4 space to join. (You can slip into 3rd ch but I just slip into the space.)

Petal Round:
Ch3, 3 dc down side of first post of V-stitch, ch1, 4 dc up side of second post of V-stitch. Skip a V-stitch and work 4 dcs down first post of V-stitch, ch1, 4 dcs up second post of V-stitch. Continue working 4 dcs down first post, ch1, and 4 dcs up second post of every other V-stitch. At the end of the round slip into 3rd ch that counted as 1st dc on post of the first V-stitch and also into the V-stitch's ch1 space behind, to join.

V-stitch Round:
Ch4, dc into same stitch. This counts as the first V-stitch for this round. Work a V-stitch (1dc, ch1, 1dc) into center of next petal. (Center is the ch1 space in the V-stitch that creates the base for the petal.) Then V-stitch (1dc, ch1, 1dc) into the space between petals, being sure to insert crochet hook into the ch1 space of the V-stitch that was skipped on the row before. So, when you insert crochet hook into ch1 space be sure to go under the the yarn where the first and last dcs of two petals meet, to catch it. When you reach the end of the round, slip into ch4 space. You will have the same # of V-stitches in every round of V-stitches and same # of petals in every round of petals. The petals will be offset.

Continue working V-stitch rounds and petal rounds until you have completed 9 rows of Petals. Slip to join.

Ch2. Work 96 dcs. Work 2 dc in same stitch, 1 dc into side of 1st dc going down the post, being sure to catch stitch behind petal also, 2 dc in center hole of petal, 1 dc into side of last dc going up the post, 2 dc between petals,. Continue working dcs across last row of petals, slip into 1st dc to join. (ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, 5dc, decr, 5dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, 3dc, decr, 3dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, 2dc, decr, 2dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, 2dc, decr, 2dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, decr in every st around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, triple decr in every st around. cut yarn, leaving tail, weave yarn through tops of remaining sts and pull tight to close top.

Decreases:
decr: yarn over for dc but only work first step, not second step to complete stitch, which leaves 3 loops on crochet hook. yo, work first step of next dc, yo, pull through all five loops. 2 st have become 1 st.

triple decr:
same as decr but do it over 3 st instead of just 2 st. yarn over for dc but only work first step, not second step to complete stitch, which leaves 3 loops on crochet hook. yo, work first step of next dc, yo, work first step of next dc, pull through all seven loops. 3 st have become 1 st.

I steam blocked these. Blocking really helps finish the hats. Not only does it give the yarn a nice sheen, it pulls everything into place. The petals become crisp and lay flat, as they should. It really makes a difference.

Stockinette St vs Stocking St

I so often see articles and on-line patterns for knit items using the term stocking stitch instead of stockinette and it really drove me nuts. Since they mean stockinette stitch, the term stocking stitch jumps out like a clump of black cat hair on an orange sweater.

I am not sure why there's an overabundance of the mis-use of stocking stitch where stockinette stitch is plainly meant but I came up with a few theories.

One, that Word doesn't like stockinette stitch so it underlines stockinette with a squiqqly red line to draw the writer's attention to the word. The writer sees that squiqqly red line and desperately tries to replace stockinette with something that Word likes. Just because Word does not like stockinette stitch does not mean that it is valid to use stocking stitch in place of stockinette.

Second, that the writer genuinely thinks people are saying stocking stitch because they have never seen stockinette stitch written down and their entire knitting experience has been audible. With the wide availability of videos on YouTube and other forums, a lot of new knitters watch these videos to learn how to knit. It's awesome that so many people are interested in knitting and inspired to take up the knitting needles because you can Google everything now. But, wipe out that ear wax. It is stockinette stitch when you knit one side and purl the other side. It is not stocking stitch.

And then I found out that in UK and Canada they say stocking stitch instead of stockinette. Color me blue with embarrassment. I heard a professional crocheter from Australia talking and the crochet terms were pronounced so differently that it took some effort to catch on to what she actually meant. I should have investigated the possibility of the term stocking stitch being legitimate elsewhere in the world before going gung-ho on my tirade.

These are the lessons that stick with us longest.

Antique Button Hook for Lucet Tool

I found this lovely old button hook at a local antique shop. I had noticed when investigating older versions of lucets or more rustic modern versions, such as antler or carved bone, that there was almost always a matching pick in the photos.

I was looking for old wooden drop spindles at the antique shop when I spotted an unassuming cardboard box about 6"x 5" sitting up on a railing. Inside were several of these button hooks. I immediately thought of the lucet tool. Since they were only a few dollars each I looked through them and picked out the best one for what I wanted. The deciding factor for me was the larger hook size.



I made several cords using the button hook. Amazing! For some reason using the button hook resulted in more uniform loops and the cords were amazingly consistent. The speed in making the cords also increased. The hook found the space between the yarn and wood easier than my fingers did so I zipped along. Best of all, pulling on wool yarn on the same spot on the side of my finger had created a red welt after making cords long enough to use as a purse strap. With the button hook I did not have that problem.

I highly recommend using a button hook when making cords on the lucet tool. I'd heard that a crochet hook could be used but I tried that in the beginning and found it awkward. I'm a crocheter so I feel comfortable using a crochet hook. For some reason it did not work well for me with the lucet tool.



This worked so well that the next day I went back to the antique store and bought a second button hook to put away for a spare. Just in case.

Crocheted Petal Hat Using Crocodile Stitch

In December I made a hat using the crocheted crocodile stitch. I thought it would make a nice spring or fall hat, since it's so light, yet it has proved to be amazingly warm so have worn it almost every day since making it. I do live in Northern Minnesota, so that's saying something. Granted, it's been a milder than normal winter but even when we had a week of brutal cold this hat still made the grade.

I am stopped constantly with people commenting on my hat. Crocheters and non-crocheters are drawn to it and tell me how much they love it. For the crocheters I usually end up giving them a quick explanation of how it's made.

I find making them extremely addicting. I used the Unforgettable yarn because I had a skein on hand and sat down to figure out how I wanted the hat to look. The first one I made was small, perfect practice size and I have several granddaughters so it was destined to be a gift for one of the girls.

The second one I made is the one I wear every day. It is so fun to make and so fun to wear.



I need a better method to display hats, I guess. I could take a selfie of myself wearing it, I guess. In a world of people posing selfies all the time I don't like plastering my face everywhere so avoid it. This is a plastic bowl tipped over a glass vase in the picture above. It works. I do have an ugly, plain, white Styrofoam head but I keep meaning to jazz it up somehow so it's put away for now.






The green hat has been steam blocked. Notice how nice the petals lay. The steam gives the yarn a nice sheen as well. The other two hats in this photo have not been blocked yet and though they still look nice, blocking really makes a noticeable difference. It's good to block.

I have not decided yet whether to put the pattern on here or up in the shop. It depends on how much interest in it. I will write up the pattern and post it at one of the two places.

Using Lucet Tool for Braided Cords

I sew purses, pouches, and bags and am always looking for ideas for different types of straps, especially for different fabrics, such as felted bags, for example. When I saw a Lucet demonstrated a few years ago I was so intrigued and had to give it a try. It’s fun and a quick way to create uniquely braided cords.

The Lucet is an old tool, dating back to the Vikings. The Vikings used it to create braided cords for lacing up clothes and creating cords for a lot of uses around the old village and on the ship. The Lucet definitely makes a strong cord.

Depending on which way the yarn, leather, or string is wrapped around the forks of the Lucet will determine the style of braid.

I had some metallic yarn that I got to make a shawl but I really did not like it so I decided that it would serve better as cording. With the metallic yarn I wrapped the yarn straight across the forks and flipped the tool around as I worked. This creates an almost flat braid, much like a shoelace.

The Lucet tool is a two-pronged fork shape with a hole at the base. The hole is totally optional but is handy to keep the growing cord in control and out of the way.

With the wool, I wrapped the yarn in a figure eight as I worked, keeping the tool in the same position.

In the photograph below the cord has been worked a few inches. Start by inserting end of yarn in hole and wrapping a figure-eight on the tool. In the photograph, the next step is to pull the bottom loop on left Lucet leg up over the top loop. Snug up the yarn but not too much because you need to have some slack for working room.

Next, bring the yarn under the right Lucet leg and up and over. Now pull up the bottom loop over the top loop and snug up a bit. I like to hold my thumb on top of the growing cord to hold it down a bit, which helps keep the braiding consistent. 

It's really a simple process. It just takes a little practice to learn the tension and gain a rhythm. Be sure to snug up the bottom loop before passing it over the top loop. This gives nice tension and also working room to allow the loop to pass up and over.

The metallic yarn is flatter. For this result I just held the yarn across the top of the Lucet legs and twisted the Lucet around and around as I worked each fork leg.

Sorry, the metallic yarn doesn't work well under flash and it was such an overcast, gloomy day when I took the photograph but I think you can see here that the resulting cord is flatter than the wool cord. It's smaller because the yarn is thinner but it's also flat compared to the squarish shape of the wool cord.

The wool cord is intended for a purse strap for a small cross-body bag I have planned. The metallic yarn cords are intended for wrist straps for some small clutches I made already.

You would think that with all the straps and cords I make and have made over the years I would not have an old bathrobe tie functioning as my curtain tie-back in the craft room. I keep thinking that I really need to make an actual strap or cord for that curtain but it always gets put on the back burner. The bathrobe has long been retired and I just happened to grab the tie one day to hold back the curtain and it's still there, all these years later.

Fox and Wolf Christmas Hoods Were a Hit

For Christmas I made the fox and wolf hoods for my grandchildren. The girls in Texas got a lighter version since it doesn't really get cold down there. The kids in Alberta, Canada got warm, heavy-duty hoods since it gets really cold up there.

I just love these hoods. They are so cute that the kids are excited to wear them and they help keep them warm and cozy on those brisk winter days.



The middle child has been in a stage of refusing to look at the camera so getting her to engage with a photographer and smile are small miracles. It's hard to tell but she was so excited about the dark wolf hood. She ran to the mirror to see herself and when she saw her reflection yelled, "I am so cute!" Very cute.

They have been wearing them while out on their outdoor activities (they are in all the pictures I've seen since Christmas) so I think they are well-loved. In these cold winter climates, staying warm is a priority. Making staying warm fun is that extra step. Looks like I've succeeded.

I must confess, when making these last autumn in preparation for gifting at Christmas, I made an adult version. The adult version is with a wool, too scratchy for little faces, but all right for an adult. I actually laugh every time I see myself in it but it's because it's so stinking fun to wear an adult wolf hood. And it's warm. It keeps the cold at bay.