Lucet Braiding Leather and Cords

The vikings used lucet tools to braid straps and cords.

But they probably did not use a fork.

They did use antlers and bones, however.

I have tried many things to make braided cords for wrist straps, purse straps, and such. The i-cord is great. Unfortunately it can take 1-2 hours to make a cord. Then I found a handy crank machine that kicks out i-cord in no time flat. Unfortunately it is limited to a specific diameter of yarn or thread. Leather does not work in it at all. Now I found a Lucet tool. Wow! It’s great. It takes about 15 minutes to make a leather cord the perfect length for a wristlet strap. 

First I found a three-pronged fork at the local thrift store. For 10 cents it was worth getting for experimenting. I also found a 49 cent two pronged kitchen fork which did not work. That’s 49 cents down the drain. I will donate it back to the thrift store. 

The three pronged dinnerware fork really worked well, except that my fingers did get a bit rubbed raw. I had not actually realized before that dinnerware forks are actually sharp edged. I incorporated a crochet hook into the process and saved my fingers.

Finally, I ordered a wood Lucet from a shop on Etsy. Quite an economical price, really. I tried to make one myself first, out of oak, in the winter, in an unheated garage, with a jigsaw because I did not want to dig out the scroll saw. It was cold. For $12 it was easier to purchase one made by a professional. 

Oh, so beautiful! It’s hickory. It feels wonderful in the hand. The shape is perfect for even tension while wrapping. I whipped out the purple cord in about 15 minutes while watching the evening news. To knit that length of i-cord would have taken 1-2 hours and the yarn is a chunky yarn and would never have gone through the crank machine. I am so happy!

When I was looking for a Lucet tool I saw a lot of videos and articles about Lucet cording where they mentioned things that it could be used for. It makes cords! That’s enough for me. I use cords in a lot of ways. The biggest advantage to me is for purse and bag straps, of course. But I have a lot of window curtains that need tie-backs. 

With all the sewing I do you would think I could do better than an old bathrobe tie for a curtain tie, right? Once I decide on the right yarn or leather, all the window curtains are getting new ties. When I first moved into the house I bought cording by the foot and estimated a bit too low so some of my ties only give me a few inches to use to secure.

Using the Lucet tool is so easy that it’s a good child’s project. Need some straps? Hand the tool to your kids and put them to work. I can easily see kids really enjoying doing this. The result is wonderful and goes fairly swiftly.

 Rolled Hem Knit Hat

This is such a comfy hat and knits up in no time flat.

Rolled Hem Hat

Homespun Yarn (medium weight 5)

Size 10 16” circular needles

Gauge: 3 st/1”

CO 54 with color A

Row 1-8: K54 (54)

Row 9: K1, P1 rib (54)

Row 10-25: K54 (54)

Row 26-27: K54 with color B (54)

Row 28-29: K54 with color A (54)

Row 30-35: K54 with color B (54)

Row 36-37: K54 with color A (54)

Row 38-39: K54 with color B (54)

Row 40-48: K54 with color A (54)

Row 49: K54, place markers after each 12 stitches (54)

Row 50: K1, K2tog after each stitch marker, SSK, before each stitch marker. (46)

Row 51: K46

Row 52: K1, K2tog after each stitch marker, SSK before each stitch marker (38)

Row 53: K38

Row 54: K1, K2tog after each stitch marker, SSK before each stitch marker

Repeat row 52 until 8 stitches remain. Cut yarn, leaving 12-14” tail, use tapestry needle to thread live loops onto tail. Tighten. Tie off and weave in end of yarn.

The reason the row of K1, P1 ribbing exists is to act as a brake to stop the stockinet roll.

This is a very basic hat. If you want or need a longer hat, just knit a few more rows after the last stripe before starting the decreases.

The blue hat and cream hat are made with Homespun yarn. The black hat with sparkles is Wool-Ease Chunky and is a tighter fabric using size 10.

Stretchy Knit Cast On

I have found a very handy long tail version for casting on when working in ribbing that is so much easier than the provisional cast on. A lot of my projects are worked in the round and I find this quick and effective. There is a slight flare but it's minimal and the ease to use this cast on outweighs the impact of the flare.

Excuse the image but my Wacom tablet was being touchy today so I just used my mouse to draw the image.

Looking at the top image you will see the hand is in position for a standard V-shaped long tail cast on. You will grab the yarn at A and then at B.

In the bottom image you will notice that the yarn tail has been switched to rest inside the thumb area, between thumb and index finger. You will grab the new A position and then grab at B.

Count the slip stitch as stitch one and cast on with standard long tail cast on every even number and the alternate every odd number. After you have cast on several stitches you will notice that they appear paired up and one of the pair has a purl looking bump. Voila! you have cast on in ribbing format and it was as easy as shifting the yarn tail from outside of thumb to inside of thumb.

It is easy to switch. Just drop yarn from thumb and pick up in new position. Once you have done a few it will be second nature.

Sometimes I even cast on with this stretchy cast on when not working in ribbing because it gives the hem a nice, non-tight edge.

Hope you try this!