Tuesday, November 15, 2016

Rain Forest Crocodile Stitch Hat Using Unforgettable Yarn


Still my favorite hat. It's so light you almost forget that you're wearing it, except when you're out in public and people stop you and comment on how much they love your hat. Yet it's so warm that I can wear it even in the heart of a Minnesota winter. The biggest problem I have with this hat is that Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable has so many fun and delightful color combinations that I want to make a hat in each of those flavors! It's not a quick project but it is rather basic once you master the petal. There are a lot more stitches than normal to cover the area because each petal is created with dcs worked along the posts of dcs in the V-stitch foundation row. It will take almost the entire skein of yarn to make the one hat. It's not as complicated as it looks and I think an experienced beginner would easily manage this project.

Here's the basic rundown of how I made the hat. Feel free to use pattern for hats you plan to sell but be sure to acknowledge that you got the pattern from Cosmic Pony.

Crochet Hook size 00 (or size E can work)
Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable yarn --1 skein

Part of the charm of the hat is the yarn weight and color, so stick with this yarn to match pictured results. If you have a favorite yarn you want to use, keep in mind that a heavier yarn will impact appearance as well as gauge.

Gauge: 5 dcs/inch

Start with a Foundation row in multiples of 6. The Foundation stitch is when the chaining and sc rows are worked together at the same time. The benefit of this is a nice, stretchy, finished edge. If you don't know how to make a Foundation row, chain desired number of stitches, slip to join, and sc across for a row.

Create Foundation row of 96 st or 102 st. I initially used 102 for almost all the hats I made but switched to  96 st to tighten it up a bit because over time the hat will stretch out a bit. The difference is minimal and I mention the two numbers because I have a small head so someone with an average head or larger head would prefer the 102 starting number. The best way to find out your initial stitch count is to do 96 and wrap around your head to see if it fits.

After Foundation row, work 1 dc in each st around. 96 (or 102) dc total. Slip to join.

The crocodile stitch has two rounds, the V-stitch round which creates the foundation for the petal stitches and then the petal stitch rounds.

V-stitch Round:
Ch4, dc in same stitch. skip 2 st, *(dc, ch1, dc) in same stitch. skip 2, repeat from * to end. slip into ch4 space to join. (You can slip into 3rd ch but I just slip into the space.)

Petal Round:
Ch3, 3 dc down side of first post of V-stitch, ch1, 4 dc up side of second post of V-stitch. Skip a V-stitch and work 4 dcs down first post of V-stitch, ch1, 4 dcs up second post of V-stitch. Continue working 4 dcs down first post, ch1, and 4 dcs up second post of every other V-stitch. At the end of the round slip into 3rd ch that counted as 1st dc on post of the first V-stitch and also into the V-stitch's ch1 space behind, to join.

V-stitch Round:
Ch4, dc into same stitch. This counts as the first V-stitch for this round. Work a V-stitch (1dc, ch1, 1dc) into center of next petal. (Center is the ch1 space in the V-stitch that creates the base for the petal.) Then V-stitch (1dc, ch1, 1dc) into the space between petals, being sure to insert crochet hook into the ch1 space of the V-stitch that was skipped on the row before. So, when you insert crochet hook into ch1 space be sure to go under the the yarn where the first and last dcs of two petals meet, to catch it. When you reach the end of the round, slip into ch4 space. You will have the same # of V-stitches in every round of V-stitches and same # of petals in every round of petals. The petals will be offset.

Continue working V-stitch rounds and petal rounds until you have completed 9 rows of Petals. Slip to join.

Ch2. Work 96 (102) dc. Work 2 dc in same stitch, 1 dc into side of 1st dc going down the post, being sure to catch stitch behind petal also, 2 dc in center hole of petal, 1 dc into side of last dc going up the post, 2 dc between petals,. Continue working dc across last row of petals, slip into 1st dc to join. (ignore ch2 when joining.)
In simple terms, dc across the round, placing the dcs to provide even, complete coverage. It just so happens that doing 2dc in petal centers and between petals with 1dc between petal centers and petal edges provides the complete, even coverage.

ch2, 5dc, decr, 5dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, 3dc, decr, 3dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, 2dc, decr, 2dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, 2dc, decr, 2dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, decr in every st around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, triple decr in every st around. cut yarn, leaving tail, weave yarn through tops of remaining sts and pull tight to close top.

decr:=yarn over for dc but only work first step, not second step to complete stitch, which leaves 3 loops on crochet hook. yo, work first step of next dc, yo, pull through all five loops. 2 sts have become 1 st.
triple decr= same as decr but do it over 3 sts instead of just 2 sts. 3 sts have become 1 st.
V-stitch= a dc stitch, ch1, and another dc stitch worked in same stitch. Forms a V.
dc= double crochet stitch
sl= slip stitch
Crocodile/Petal Stitch= 4dc worked on post of right leg of V stitch, ch1, 4dc worked on post of left leg of V stitch
st= stitch
sts= stitches


I steam blocked these. Blocking really helps finish the hats. Not only does it give the yarn a nice sheen, it pulls everything into place. The petals become crisp and lay flat, as they should. It really makes a difference.




Monday, November 7, 2016

Moonlight Wolf Knit Poncho with Fur Collar





Knit Poncho with Fur Collar


I made this lovely poncho for a Christmas gift for a family member and liked it so much that I had to make one for myself also. It is so warm and lovely.



I have included instructions for three sizes but really it’s a one size fits all. The three sizes affect the length of the poncho but you can wear any of the sizes whether you are slim or matronly in size.

 
Here’s the short version: Gage doesn’t really matter but it’s about 2 st per inch if you want to check and adjust if you are way different. Use size 13 needles. Circular needles work best since there’s a lot of fabric resulting. There is a garter edge while the main body is done in linen stitch. Constant increases every other row work to offset the yarn bars that are created when slipping the stitch with the yarn in front. For the rows worked without increases (across the shoulders) knit an extra stitch if necessary to maintain bar placement.
Cast on 3 stitches and knit the front and back of 1st and 3rd stitch then knit back then knit first stitch, increase with KFB in second stich and second to last stitch on right side rows and knit wrong side rows until you have 7 stitches. We are creating the garter stitch border. Start slipping first stitch of every row now and do an increase by doing KFB in center stitch of this row to give us even number of stitches.

Continue slipping first stitch, increase in second stitch, knit to last two stitches, increase in second to last stitch, knit last stitch on right side and knit across on wrong side until you have 12 stitches. Now slip 1st stitch, increase in second stitch, knit 2 stitches, *slip a stich with the yarn in front, k1* twice, knit 2 st, increase, knit last stitch and purl back on wrong side. Next round will be slip 1st stitch, increase in second stitch, knit 2 stitches, *slip a stich with the yarn in front, k1* three times, knit 2 st, increase, knit last stitch and purl back on wrong side. Continue doing this until you have 80 stitches for small, 90 stitches for medium, and 100 stitches for large. Work 6 rows without increasing, paying attention to bars from slipped stitches to maintain offset and knitting an extra stitch if necessary to maintain pattern. You can insert a stitch marker on either side of center stitch at this point.
Now we’re going to bind off 26 stitches in center for neck hole. Working in pattern, slip 1, k4, *slip 1 with yarn in front, k1* until you reach the 13th stitch from center. Bind off 26 stitches, continue working in pattern to end of row. Purl back, cast on 26 stitches, purl rest of the way back. Work 6 rows without increasing then start working decrease in place of increase. Slip 1st stitch, k2tog, knit 3, *slwyf, k1* to last 6 stitches, knit 3, ssk (slip 1st then 2nd stitch and knit them together through back loops). Continue until you have 12 stitches then continue in garter stitch, binding off last three stitches.
For neck, pickup up 60 stitches (26 on each side and 2 at each end) with main yarn, join and knit one round, decreasing out extra picked up stitches by K2tog at 24th stitch and 26th stitch and 56th and 38th stitch. Now add fur yarn and knit with both yarns for eight rows (will use up almost whole skein of fur yarn) and bind off loosely.

Very straightforward and I think even an experienced beginner will find this easy enough to do. If knitting in the round is intimidating you could knit back and forth for neck and seam it up the back. Or crochet the neck if you know how to crochet. The fur can be a bit tough to crochet because the stitches are buried in the fur.



Moonlight Wolf Knit Poncho with Fur Collar
Suitable for experienced beginner.

Detailed pattern:
Size 13
Yarn used:
”Moonlight” Chunky Wool Ease 5-6 skeins (5oz, 87 yds each and
Red Heart Boutique Fur 1 skein (3.5 oz/11 yds) 1 skein
Gauge: 2.5 st/inch

CO3
R1: KFB, K1, KFB
R2: K5
R3: K1, KFB, K1, KFB, K1
R4: K7
R5: K1, KFB, K1, KFB, K1, KFB, K1
R6: sl1, K9
R7: Sl1, KFB, K6, KFB, K1
R8: sl1, K11
R9: sl1, KFB, K2, (sl1wyf, K1) x2, K2, KFB, K1
R10: sl1, K4, P4, K5
R11: sl1, KFB, K2, (sl1wyf, K1)x3, K2, KFB, K1
R12: sl1, K4, P6, K5
R13: sl1, KFB, K2, (sl1wyf, K1) x4, K2, KFB, K1
R14: sl1, K4, P8, K5

Continue repeating rows 13 and 14, working (sl1wyf, K1) linen stitch repeats between garter borders on right side and purling stitches between garter borders on wrong side until you have 80 (90, 100) stitches on needle. Finish with purled side.
(80 stitches is for small, 90 for medium, and 100 for large)

Work 6 more rows without increasing, repeating these 3x
RS: sl1, K4, (sl1wyf, K1) to last five, K5.
And adjusting as needed to offset sl1wyf from row above by knitting a stitch before beginning linen stitch.
WS: K5, Purl across to last five st, K5.


RS: sl1, K4, repeat (sl1wyf, K1) to 13th stitch from center. (Depending on size you might end on slipped stitch or knit stitch here). Bind off 26 stitches.  Knit 1 if needed to maintain offset or resume with linen stitch (sl1wyf, K1) to last five stitches, K5.
WS: sl1, K4, Purl across. Cast on 26 stitches. Use knit cast on. Purl to last 5 stitches, K5.

Work 6 more rows, repeating these 3x
RS: sl1, K4, (sl1wyf, K1) to last five, K5.
And adjusting if needed to offset sl1wyf from row above by knitting a stitch first.
WS: sl1, K4, Purl across to last five sts, K5.

Now we’re going to work a decrease wherever there was an increase on the first half.
RS: sl1, K2tog, K3, (sl1wyf, K1) x as needed, to last six sts, K3, SSK, K1
Ws: sl1, K4, Purl across to last 5 sts, K5

Continue working a 5 stitch garter border with decreases at second stitch, linen stitch across, and decrease on second to last stitch on right side.  Then 5 stitch garter border, purl across, and 5 stitch garter border on wrong side until you are down to 12 stitches.

RS: sl1, K2tog, Knit to second to last, SSK, K1
WS: sl1, knit across
Continue until 3 sts remain, bind off.

For fur cowl around neckline; pick up 60 stitches (26 on each side and 2 at each end) with main yarn, join and knit one round, decreasing out extra picked up stitches by K2tog at 24th stitch and K2tog at 26th stitch as well as at 56th and 58th stitch. Now add fur yarn and knit with both yarns for eight rows (will use up almost whole skein of fur yarn) being careful not to drop one of the yarns while working both together. Bind off loosely.


K= knit
P= purl
KFB= knit in front and back of same stitch
SSK= slip a stitch knitwise twice, put the two sts back on left needle and knit through back

K2tog= knit two stitches together
sl= slip stitch purlwise
slwyf= slip stitch purlwise with yarn held to the front
linen stitch= alternate slwyf and K1 stitches.
garter= knit on both right and wrong sides