Simple Knit Cat in Chunky Yarn

I just love these simple but cuddly cats. They were made with the same knitting needles using the same number of stitches but the difference in the yarn, though both bulky, greatly influenced the end result.

This guy has embossed metal buttons for eyes. He's made with Wool-Ease yarn using size 15 circulars. I will make and attach a tail but not any arms or legs. He is tagged for a gift for a two-year old child, so cuddle factor is the desired impact.

This guy is used with leftover Rustic chunky yarn that I used to make a winter rolled brim hat last winter. He almost looks more like a dog, doesn't he? There isn't enough yarn to give him a tail so he will have to remain ambiguous.

They make me happy. They're so cute and sweet and cuddly. I started out with casting on 4 stitches and steadily increasing until the head was the size that I wanted and then worked around straight (no increases) for the length of the body. It's worked in stockinette until the length was reached and then I worked two rows of garter before starting the abrupt decreases for the bottom. The garter helps turn in the fabric and the abrupt decreases creates a flat bottom so the cats can sit. Fun and simple for a child's gift.

The ears are crocheted. I mix crochet and knitting quite often. It's quite simple, 5 dc, turn, a 5 dc decrease (start dc but don't pull through last two loops until the very end when you pull through all the partially worked dcs at the same time) to create a pointed top.

The muzzle is knit and worked flat. Started out with a cast on a few stitches and increased at first and last stitch of every other knit row, purling on rows without increases then worked a few rows without increases then decreased in the same way as the increases until I was back to the original number of stitches that were cast on. After binding off the the last row, cut a long tail and use tapestry needle to wind through edge, add some stuffing, and pull up tight. Wrap yarn around center of muzzle to create those fun puffy cheeks and whip stitch muzzle onto front of cat's face.

Exploring the Entrelac Stitch Pattern

Ever since the first time I saw entrelac I was captivated. I was a beginner knitter so when I looked at the instructions they were so intimidating that I recoiled in horror and never gave it a try.

Isn't it lovely though? That woven look is so delicious. Makes me shiver.

Years later and many layers of experience behind me, I decided to give it a try. With experience it was fairly straightforward to knit up a swatch. It's interesting, because my stitch dictionary has a purse project with entrelac sides and categorized it as for experienced knitters yet I have seen many patterns and videos online for entrelac basic instructions that categorize the stitch as advanced beginner. The reality is probably in-between. I certainly would not categorize it as a beginner project, even for advanced beginner. It's a medium process. As in everything in knitting, if you can knit and purl you can do anything. I just think that a beginner would be frustrated doing entrelac.

The results are awesome though! Beginner or experienced or in-between, if you are determined to learn entrelac it's so worth it. The backside is rather unattractive. Picking up stitches along the edges of the rectangles leaves a dotted line of color and the lovely bulging on the right side of the work that creates the woven effect is a concave of attractiveness on the backside. It lends well to projects where only the front side shows.

I made this cowl with one skein of yarn. I knitted it flat on circular needles and mattress stitched the sides together. If not for the different colors of the edge triangles the join would not even be easy to find. Using a variegated yarn with long strands of color changes is the ideal choice for entrelac. I enjoyed this choice much more than changing colors at the end of each tier. If you have to stop and change colors you have to cut the yarn at every end because the next row starts too far away to strand the yarn in the back. That leaves a lot of ends to weave in and a lot of shortened lengths of yarn if you decide to tear it out again for some reason.

This cowl is made with 5 st rectangles. You can make the rectangles 5 to 10 stitches long/wide. Just cast on a multiple of whatever number you decide to work and always pick up that number on the sides. For this cowl I cast on a multiple of 5 and picked up 5 stitches on each edge as I worked across. I don't have a picture here but I also made a cowl with 10 st rectangles. It worked up really quickly. Then I did a swatch of working in the round and purling backwards to avoid all the turning. That really works up faster, once you get the hang of knitting/purling backwards.

Now I am on the hunt for the perfect variegated yarn to make a scarf by knitting entrelac in the round (to hide that ugly back side) and seaming up tops and bottoms to make a thick, luscious entrelac scarf.

Custom Design Your Own Reversible Fleece Winter Hat with Earflaps

Reversible, warm, and stylish with any fleece or comparable fabric that you choose.

This is my favorite accessory this winter. Winters get cold in Northern Minnesota so we're used to the cold. Accessories make the cold more bearable. This double layered fleece hat with ear flaps makes a -14 degrees Fahrenheit feel closer to a modest 0 degrees Fahrenheit.

The wind blows here. Wind chill factors bring that same -14 degrees Fahrenheit down to a -30 degrees. Cold that shakes you to the core. Again, totally modest feeling with this hat to keep the cold Minnesota wind off the ears and head.

You too can make this hat in any color you desire. The hat is completely reversible so you can use a neutral color on one side and a fun, vibrant color on the other side. You can even mix up the colors in the four crown pieces and headband. When you feel like a punch of color, wear the color side on the outside. If you're feeling a bit more moderate, wear the neutral color on the outside.

The hat is made of 4 pieces to make up the crown and one headband with earflaps part of the band. 

Here is how you design your own custom pattern:

I did my best to line up tissue paper with grid mat for measurement reference as often as possible so you can refer to grid.

All seams are calculated at 1/2" seam allowance for this hat pattern.

Start with 3 pieces of tissue paper. Cut 1 4"x 4", one 6" x 7", and one 3" x your desired width. I have a 20" head circumference, which is on the smaller side. I cut my band 3" x 21" to allow for seam allowance and to have a loose fit. Works perfectly for 20-22" heads. This will be cut out on the fold so mark one end with fold line.

Let's start with the ear flap. Fold the 4"x6" tissue paper in half lengthwise. Use a protractor or find a lid as I did to mark to round the outside corner.

Cut the corner off.

Tape the ear flap pattern piece to the headband pattern piece. Be sure to keep it to the back half of the headband. I taped it about 2-2 1/2" from back edge. That gives a good 4" in front of headband. Note the fold line on right side of headband pattern piece. This is the front of the hat.

Now the crown pieces. Fold 6"x7" pattern piece in half lengthwise. I trimmed a curve freehand but if you want you can use the image above to make marks along the outside edge of pattern piece and cut along those marks. 

Now lay a piece of tissue paper over headband and outline the headband pattern piece, curving connection between ear flap and headband. Just smooth the corners. Transfer fold mark as well. I also drew a reference line on back side just shy of 2" from edge to remind me to leave a gap for turning.

Mark your pattern pieces for grain line and stretch line. We want maximum stretch of fabric to go side to side. This is very important when making your hat. You can use other materials besides fleece. I used a faux fur fabric for the inside of the cow hat. It just has to have some stretch to it and that stretch needs to go side to side.

Now you're ready to cut out your pieces. You will need 1 headband piece of each outer fabric and lining fabric. 4 crown pieces of each outer fabric and lining fabric.

Headband: 1 outer fabric

                             1 lining/inner fabric

Crown: 4 outer fabric

                       1 lining/inner fabric

Fleece, fake fur, and sweatshirt fabric are good fabric choices.

Le'ts focus on one side, the outer side. Cut headband on fold and 4 pieces for crown. I put a pin near the bottom of each set of quarters because I find that once you sew 2 quads together it can be a bit confusing to recognize what is the top.

Sew one side of 2 crown pieces top to bottom, right sides facing. Sew second set of crown pieces, one side, top to bottom, right sides facing. Now place two halves together, matching seam at top, right sides facing, sew together.

Sew back edge of headband, right sides facing, to close headband.

Quarter pin headband to crown, starting with headband seam matching a crown seam. Then pin front of crown to front of headband. Then pin each side.

Sew headband to crown.

Now repeat steps for inner/lining.

Put two sides together, right sides facing, and sew along bottom side of headband, leaving a 2-3" gap in the back for turning. It will all fit in that small of a hole, yes. Once turned, smooth with fingers, point turner, or blunt tipped scissors to get all the bumps out of the way along the seam. Then top stitch. I top stitch close enough to the edge to close up the turning gap but you can stitch it by hand first if you want. Not necessary to hand stitch it closed though as the top stitching does a good job of closing the hole as long as you pay attention to where the hole is when sewing.

As I mentioned, I have a 20" head and this hat is comfortably loose on my head but does not cover my eyes like on this poor mannequin's head.

I didn't really pay attention to how much fleece it will take as I was using up fleece I had on hand. I would say that a quarter yard on a long bolted fabric for each side would likely do the trick. Nothing was taller than 8" in the pattern. Allow for more for fussy cutting or matching designs in the fabric. You could always create your custom pattern and take it with to the fabric shop to make sure that you have enough.