Rainforest/Petal Crocodile Stitch Hat Pattern

I literally can't go out in public wearing this hat without someone coming up to me and complimenting me on it. I wear it all the time since making it in December. It's light and doesn't scrunch hair (no hat hair) while still keeping my head warm in deep Minnesota winters. When I first made it I expected it to be a nice spring hat but it's surprisingly warm for as light as it is on my head.

Here's the basic rundown of how I made the hat. Feel free to use pattern for hats you plan to sell but be sure to acknowledge that you got the pattern from Cosmic Pony.

Crochet Hook size 00 (or size E can work)
Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable yarn

Part of the charm of the hat is the yarn weight and color, so stick with this yarn to match pictured results. If you have a favorite yarn you want to use, keep in mind that a heavier yarn will impact appearance as well as gauge.

Gauge: 5 dcs/inch

Start with a Foundation row in multiples of 6. The Foundation stitch is when the chaining and sc rows are worked together at the same time. The benefit of this is a nice, stretchy, finished edge. If you don't know how to make a Foundation row, chain desired number of stitches, slip to join, and sc across for a row.

Create Foundation row of 96 st or 102 st. I initially used 102 for almost all the hats I made but switched to  96 st to tighten it up a bit because over time the hat will stretch out a bit. The difference is minimal and I mention the two numbers because I have a small head so someone with an average head or larger head would prefer the 102 starting number. The best way to find out your initial stitch count is to do 96 and wrap around your head to see if it fits.

After Foundation row, work 1 dc in each st around. 96 (or 102) dc total. Slip to join.

The crocodile stitch has two rounds, the V-stitch round which creates the foundation for the petal stitches and then the petal stitch rounds.

V-stitch Round:
Ch4, dc in same stitch. skip 2 st, *(dc, ch1, dc) in same stitch. skip 2, repeat from * to end. slip into ch4 space to join. (You can slip into 3rd ch but I just slip into the space.)

Petal Round:
Ch3, 3 dc down side of first post of V-stitch, ch1, 4 dc up side of second post of V-stitch. Skip a V-stitch and work 4 dcs down first post of V-stitch, ch1, 4 dcs up second post of V-stitch. Continue working 4 dcs down first post, ch1, and 4 dcs up second post of every other V-stitch. At the end of the round slip into 3rd ch that counted as 1st dc on post of the first V-stitch and also into the V-stitch's ch1 space behind, to join.

V-stitch Round:
Ch4, dc into same stitch. This counts as the first V-stitch for this round. Work a V-stitch (1dc, ch1, 1dc) into center of next petal. (Center is the ch1 space in the V-stitch that creates the base for the petal.) Then V-stitch (1dc, ch1, 1dc) into the space between petals, being sure to insert crochet hook into the ch1 space of the V-stitch that was skipped on the row before. So, when you insert crochet hook into ch1 space be sure to go under the the yarn where the first and last dcs of two petals meet, to catch it. When you reach the end of the round, slip into ch4 space. You will have the same # of V-stitches in every round of V-stitches and same # of petals in every round of petals. The petals will be offset.

Continue working V-stitch rounds and petal rounds until you have completed 9 rows of Petals. Slip to join.

Ch2. Work 96 dcs. Work 2 dc in same stitch, 1 dc into side of 1st dc going down the post, being sure to catch stitch behind petal also, 2 dc in center hole of petal, 1 dc into side of last dc going up the post, 2 dc between petals,. Continue working dcs across last row of petals, slip into 1st dc to join. (ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, 5dc, decr, 5dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, 3dc, decr, 3dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, 2dc, decr, 2dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, 2dc, decr, 2dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, decr in every st around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, triple decr in every st around. cut yarn, leaving tail, weave yarn through tops of remaining sts and pull tight to close top.

Decreases:
decr: yarn over for dc but only work first step, not second step to complete stitch, which leaves 3 loops on crochet hook. yo, work first step of next dc, yo, pull through all five loops. 2 st have become 1 st.

triple decr:
same as decr but do it over 3 st instead of just 2 st. yarn over for dc but only work first step, not second step to complete stitch, which leaves 3 loops on crochet hook. yo, work first step of next dc, yo, work first step of next dc, pull through all seven loops. 3 st have become 1 st.

I steam blocked these. Blocking really helps finish the hats. Not only does it give the yarn a nice sheen, it pulls everything into place. The petals become crisp and lay flat, as they should. It really makes a difference.

Stockinette St vs Stocking St

I so often see articles and on-line patterns for knit items using the term stocking stitch instead of stockinette and it really drove me nuts. Since they mean stockinette stitch, the term stocking stitch jumps out like a clump of black cat hair on an orange sweater.

I am not sure why there's an overabundance of the mis-use of stocking stitch where stockinette stitch is plainly meant but I came up with a few theories.

One, that Word doesn't like stockinette stitch so it underlines stockinette with a squiqqly red line to draw the writer's attention to the word. The writer sees that squiqqly red line and desperately tries to replace stockinette with something that Word likes. Just because Word does not like stockinette stitch does not mean that it is valid to use stocking stitch in place of stockinette.

Second, that the writer genuinely thinks people are saying stocking stitch because they have never seen stockinette stitch written down and their entire knitting experience has been audible. With the wide availability of videos on YouTube and other forums, a lot of new knitters watch these videos to learn how to knit. It's awesome that so many people are interested in knitting and inspired to take up the knitting needles because you can Google everything now. But, wipe out that ear wax. It is stockinette stitch when you knit one side and purl the other side. It is not stocking stitch.

And then I found out that in UK and Canada they say stocking stitch instead of stockinette. Color me blue with embarrassment. I heard a professional crocheter from Australia talking and the crochet terms were pronounced so differently that it took some effort to catch on to what she actually meant. I should have investigated the possibility of the term stocking stitch being legitimate elsewhere in the world before going gung-ho on my tirade.

These are the lessons that stick with us longest.

Antique Button Hook for Lucet Tool

I found this lovely old button hook at a local antique shop. I had noticed when investigating older versions of lucets or more rustic modern versions, such as antler or carved bone, that there was almost always a matching pick in the photos.

I was looking for old wooden drop spindles at the antique shop when I spotted an unassuming cardboard box about 6"x 5" sitting up on a railing. Inside were several of these button hooks. I immediately thought of the lucet tool. Since they were only a few dollars each I looked through them and picked out the best one for what I wanted. The deciding factor for me was the larger hook size.



I made several cords using the button hook. Amazing! For some reason using the button hook resulted in more uniform loops and the cords were amazingly consistent. The speed in making the cords also increased. The hook found the space between the yarn and wood easier than my fingers did so I zipped along. Best of all, pulling on wool yarn on the same spot on the side of my finger had created a red welt after making cords long enough to use as a purse strap. With the button hook I did not have that problem.

I highly recommend using a button hook when making cords on the lucet tool. I'd heard that a crochet hook could be used but I tried that in the beginning and found it awkward. I'm a crocheter so I feel comfortable using a crochet hook. For some reason it did not work well for me with the lucet tool.



This worked so well that the next day I went back to the antique store and bought a second button hook to put away for a spare. Just in case.

Crocheted Petal Hat Using Crocodile Stitch

In December I made a hat using the crocheted crocodile stitch. I thought it would make a nice spring or fall hat, since it's so light, yet it has proved to be amazingly warm so have worn it almost every day since making it. I do live in Northern Minnesota, so that's saying something. Granted, it's been a milder than normal winter but even when we had a week of brutal cold this hat still made the grade.

I am stopped constantly with people commenting on my hat. Crocheters and non-crocheters are drawn to it and tell me how much they love it. For the crocheters I usually end up giving them a quick explanation of how it's made.

I find making them extremely addicting. I used the Unforgettable yarn because I had a skein on hand and sat down to figure out how I wanted the hat to look. The first one I made was small, perfect practice size and I have several granddaughters so it was destined to be a gift for one of the girls.

The second one I made is the one I wear every day. It is so fun to make and so fun to wear.



I need a better method to display hats, I guess. I could take a selfie of myself wearing it, I guess. In a world of people posing selfies all the time I don't like plastering my face everywhere so avoid it. This is a plastic bowl tipped over a glass vase in the picture above. It works. I do have an ugly, plain, white Styrofoam head but I keep meaning to jazz it up somehow so it's put away for now.






The green hat has been steam blocked. Notice how nice the petals lay. The steam gives the yarn a nice sheen as well. The other two hats in this photo have not been blocked yet and though they still look nice, blocking really makes a noticeable difference. It's good to block.

I have not decided yet whether to put the pattern on here or up in the shop. It depends on how much interest in it. I will write up the pattern and post it at one of the two places.

Using Lucet Tool for Braided Cords

I sew purses, pouches, and bags and am always looking for ideas for different types of straps, especially for different fabrics, such as felted bags, for example. When I saw a Lucet demonstrated a few years ago I was so intrigued and had to give it a try. It’s fun and a quick way to create uniquely braided cords.

The Lucet is an old tool, dating back to the Vikings. The Vikings used it to create braided cords for lacing up clothes and creating cords for a lot of uses around the old village and on the ship. The Lucet definitely makes a strong cord.

Depending on which way the yarn, leather, or string is wrapped around the forks of the Lucet will determine the style of braid.

I had some metallic yarn that I got to make a shawl but I really did not like it so I decided that it would serve better as cording. With the metallic yarn I wrapped the yarn straight across the forks and flipped the tool around as I worked. This creates an almost flat braid, much like a shoelace.

The Lucet tool is a two-pronged fork shape with a hole at the base. The hole is totally optional but is handy to keep the growing cord in control and out of the way.

With the wool, I wrapped the yarn in a figure eight as I worked, keeping the tool in the same position.

In the photograph below the cord has been worked a few inches. Start by inserting end of yarn in hole and wrapping a figure-eight on the tool. In the photograph, the next step is to pull the bottom loop on left Lucet leg up over the top loop. Snug up the yarn but not too much because you need to have some slack for working room.

Next, bring the yarn under the right Lucet leg and up and over. Now pull up the bottom loop over the top loop and snug up a bit. I like to hold my thumb on top of the growing cord to hold it down a bit, which helps keep the braiding consistent. 

It's really a simple process. It just takes a little practice to learn the tension and gain a rhythm. Be sure to snug up the bottom loop before passing it over the top loop. This gives nice tension and also working room to allow the loop to pass up and over.

The metallic yarn is flatter. For this result I just held the yarn across the top of the Lucet legs and twisted the Lucet around and around as I worked each fork leg.

Sorry, the metallic yarn doesn't work well under flash and it was such an overcast, gloomy day when I took the photograph but I think you can see here that the resulting cord is flatter than the wool cord. It's smaller because the yarn is thinner but it's also flat compared to the squarish shape of the wool cord.

The wool cord is intended for a purse strap for a small cross-body bag I have planned. The metallic yarn cords are intended for wrist straps for some small clutches I made already.

You would think that with all the straps and cords I make and have made over the years I would not have an old bathrobe tie functioning as my curtain tie-back in the craft room. I keep thinking that I really need to make an actual strap or cord for that curtain but it always gets put on the back burner. The bathrobe has long been retired and I just happened to grab the tie one day to hold back the curtain and it's still there, all these years later.

Fox and Wolf Christmas Hoods Were a Hit

For Christmas I made the fox and wolf hoods for my grandchildren. The girls in Texas got a lighter version since it doesn't really get cold down there. The kids in Alberta, Canada got warm, heavy-duty hoods since it gets really cold up there.

I just love these hoods. They are so cute that the kids are excited to wear them and they help keep them warm and cozy on those brisk winter days.



The middle child has been in a stage of refusing to look at the camera so getting her to engage with a photographer and smile are small miracles. It's hard to tell but she was so excited about the dark wolf hood. She ran to the mirror to see herself and when she saw her reflection yelled, "I am so cute!" Very cute.

They have been wearing them while out on their outdoor activities (they are in all the pictures I've seen since Christmas) so I think they are well-loved. In these cold winter climates, staying warm is a priority. Making staying warm fun is that extra step. Looks like I've succeeded.

I must confess, when making these last autumn in preparation for gifting at Christmas, I made an adult version. The adult version is with a wool, too scratchy for little faces, but all right for an adult. I actually laugh every time I see myself in it but it's because it's so stinking fun to wear an adult wolf hood. And it's warm. It keeps the cold at bay.

Scrap Buster Burst of Color Inside a Hexagon Afghan

It's not that fiber artists are hoarders. We're just very frugal. That bit of yarn is too nice to toss into the garbage when it has the potential to serve a purpose. Here it is, the perfect scrap afghan to use up even minute amounts of our favorite yarns.



I was looking for some inspiration for crocheted owl motifs when I stumbled onto a tutorial of how to make hexagon (six-sided) motifs that are attached as you go instead of seamed. I just love the little bursts of color within the neutral beige.



I made some minor changes. It's a really, really simple, basic pattern. On the third row I added a chain 1 between the pairs of double crochet stitches and then worked the fourth row shells in the chain 1 space instead of between the two dc stitches.



What a wonderful way to use up scrap yarn.

The first round is just 12 dc inside either a magic loop, magic circle, or the space within a ch4 slipped to join. I ch2 then ignore the ch2 and slip into top of first dc to join. This helps prevent holes or gaps.

The second round is 1 dc and ch1 in every dc of first round.

I worked the first and second round in the same yarn for every motif. You could do separate yarns for each the first round and then the second round if preferred.

The third round is 2dc and ch1 in every ch 1 space from round two. This is the round that pops!

The fourth round is the hexagon (six-sided). Work 3dc in the chain space of round three, ch1 for the side and work 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch1 for the corner.

Since this motif has 12 ch spaces to work in there will be 6 sides and 6 corners. So, *3dc in ch space, ch1, 3dc, ch2, 3dc in ch space, ch1, repeat from * 5 more times and slip into 1st dc to join.

To join motifs together as you go, work 3 to 5 sides of round 4 then sc into corresponding space of neighboring motif in place of the ch1 between the trio of dcs.



So looking at the photo above, the space between the burgundy/white motif and green/white motif will have 3 sides to work ahead of time and 3 sides to work by working a sc in the corresponding ch1 space. The space between the green/white motif and pink/white motif will only have 2 sides to work so go ahead and work 4 sides on the motif in progress then finish two remaining sides by attaching them to the two finished motifs.

I used very thin yarn and a size E crochet hook. This is the perfect project to keep in a project bag with a note or tag reminding of which size crochet hook to use and keep adding whenever I get a buildup of scrap yarn.

I was also thinking that since the centers are sort of pushed out that this would be good candidate for sunflower afghan. That means it would not be a scrap buster but a planned event since it would require brown centers and yellow and/or orange petals for round 3. But how fun that would be! Many shades of browns and gold and orange yellows. It could be a daisy afghan also. All white third rounds with either brown, green, or a variety of colors for the center (rounds 1 and 2).

Here is the original tutorial I saw.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WF7iQI3MPQ




I adore this bright and cheerful afghan and think that it is worthy of all the precious scrap yarn. I shall resist buying new yarn just for this. I shall resist. I will resist. We're not hoarders of yarn. In defense of all fiber artists who have a growing stash of yarn, there are so many pretty yarns and sometimes yarns go away so we have to acquire those lovely yarns while they are available even if we don't have a specific use in mind for them at the time when we buy them. There will come a time for all yarn in our stash, even the little leftover 1" ball of delightful color. This lovely afghan is the perfect example of that.

Adult Linen Stitch Slippers in Blue

Max approves of the adult version of the linen booties. I really like these. They are soft and cushiony and warm.

In the summer I go bare footed in the house most of the time but come winter I need to wear socks and slippers. The hardwood floors are a bit cold on the feet but not too bad because there is a basement underneath the house. The kitchen only has basement on one side. Half the kitchen has no basement below it. I am guessing there was an addition built on at some point years ago. That lack of basement sure makes for a cold, cold, really cold floor in the kitchen.



These lovely slippers keep my feet comfortable. They are worked flat and seamed. I used a whip stitch instead of mattress stitch to avoid having a seam to have to walk on. Once again, they are the versatile linen baby booty pattern made in chunky yarn with large knitting needles and an increase in original cast on stitches to match gauge for required length of foot.

The 2 Skein 2 Hour One-Size Cardigan

When I made the sample swatch with size 50 needles to demonstrate the cross-bar of yarn behind the V for welting and English Brioche I really liked the look of the bulky yarn on the over-sized knitting needles so I made a cardigan.

Using size 50 knitting needle really speeds up the project. I made this one with one skein of Autumn Leaves and one skein of Shale. This is a chunky yarn (5). I worked a row of single crochet around the edge, three sc per knit stitch, but it did add weight to the cardigan so next time I would do two stitches in each stitch instead of three stitches.

 

Then I decided to use up some other bulky (6) yarn. This one took more than two skeins because there is half the yardage in these skeins than in the other brand. With this one I did not do the edging, just four rows of single crochet along the collar. In the first one the front panel is wider also. I actually like the wider, draped look a lot.

Here is the basic pattern if you want to make either version for a quick afternoon project. There really isn't much to it. It's a good practice piece and the end result is a drapey, fun cardigan.

Chunky Yarn

1 skein Country Loom/Autumn Leaves 104 yds/95 m 5 oz

1 skein Country Loom/Shale 104 yds/95 m 5 oz

Size 50 knitting needles.

Bulky Yarn

2 skeins Hometown USA/Brown 64 yrds/4 oz each

2 skeins Hometown USA/Mustard 64 yrds/4 oz each

(Or 4 skeins of same color.)

Back:

For both versions, CO 26. Work Stockinette for 26 rows, ending with the purl row. Put live stitches on a holder or scrap yarn. (If desired, bind off 13th and 14th stitch on last row worked.)

Left Panel:

For Chunky version, CO 26 in Shale. Work Stockinette in Shale to 20^th row. Change color to Autumn Leaves at 18th row and keep working Stockinette to 24th row. 25^th row is a purl row. Bind off 12 stitches, leaving 12 stitches on needle, finish purling that row, knit 26^th row. Put live stitches on a holder or scrap yarn.

For Bulky version, CO 19. Bind off 7 st, leaving 12 st on needle.

Right Panel:

For Chunky version, CO 26 in Shale. Work Stockinette in Shale. Change color to Autumn Leaves at 18th row and keep working Stockinette to 24^th row. On 24^th row bind off 12 stitches, leaving 12 stitches on needle, finish knitting that row, purl a row, knit 26^th row.

For Bulky version, CO 19. Bind off 7 st, leaving 12 st on needle.

If you have more than two giant knitting needles you could do a 3 needle bind off to attach front panels to back but I did Kitchener’s stitch. You could also bind off and seam pieces together.

Slide size 50 knitting needle through 12 stitches on right side of back for right panel. With tapestry needle sew back and front panel together in Kitchener’s stitch with wrong sides together, working with right side facing you.

Slide size 50 knitting needle through 12 stitches on left of back for left panel. With tapestry needle sew back and front panel together in Kitchener’s stitch with wrong sides together, working with right side facing you.

There will be two live stitches remaining on holder or scrap yarn. I incorporated them into the edging and the collar. You could bind off 13^th and 14^th stitch on 26^th row when working that row instead.

With shoulder seams together, for chunky yarn version, count down 10 stitches on both sides and seam sides to these marked stitches. For bulky version I counted down 10 stitches on both sides from shoulder seam and picked up 21 stitches and worked 4 rows in Stockinette for a short sleeve then seamed up side and sleeve.

For the edging on the chunky version I used a size J crochet hook and worked single crochet around all edges, picking up the remaining 2 live stitches on back.

For the bulky version I did not do any edge work but single crocheted with size J crochet hook from seam to seam, picking up the remaining 2 live stitches on back. Do 4 rows of single crochet for the collar.

Easy peasy! Such a simple project that whips up super fast. 

Making Designing Samples and Swatches

Using samples and swatches actually saves a lot of time and offers you the freedom to experiment without commitment.

I decided to do a sample, a mini version of a project I had in mind. I wanted to see which way to approach designing a poncho. The cat was kind enough to model the swatch for me.

Working up the mini version only took an hour or so and yet gave me all the information I needed before starting the full-sized project. Have I mentioned that I like to do swatches and samples? It is really helpful.

I had in mind the poncho shape that I wanted to create but I could not decide whether to make a square or start at the corner and work diagonally. I knew which stitch pattern I wanted to use and thought that stitch would look good sideways also. I decided a sample poncho was the way to go rather than putting the stress on the project yarn of knitting it up and having to tear it out again.

Doing the sample poncho really helped. By making the quick, mini version I could see the impact of the bias resulting from which direction I knit the item. I am so pleased with the end result. I just love this poncho. The thick yarn has a rustic feel to it and the luxurious faux fur yarn trimming the collar is so soft and elegant.

It’s a Christmas gift that when I finished it I wanted to keep for myself. I guess I will have to make one for me now. But after Christmas.

The Makeup of the Stockinette Stitch Pertaining to Simplifying Two Stitches

There are tons of videos and tutorials on the internet but I still like to post some helpful hints and shortcuts related to any patterns I post. Or even just share something I've learned somewhere else but with my spin to it, such as a critical detail I couldn't find elsewhere, etc.

So, that said, I did some photos to show where to insert the tip of the knitting needle for English Brioche and welting.

When looking at the front side of the Stockinette stitch there are Vs and on the back side it’s a series of n and u bumps. It’s good to understand the correlation between the v and the n and u. I made a swatch of super-sized stitches, using size 50 knitting needles and bulky yarn, hoping to get a clear visual of the construct of the stockinette stitch but it was still tough to get in there. Knowing where those v and n bumps are in relation to the right side V helps with working the English Brioche stitch as well as a method of welting that allows working from the front side instead of trying to pick up stitches in a straight line on the back of the work.

With the arrows I hope it works to see what I am talking about. The black arrows are pointing to the middle of the stockinette stitch directly below the stitch still on the needle.

For English Brioche the stitch is made into the stitch below the needles. Just insert tip of knitting needle here, grab yarn and complete stitch. It takes a leap of faith to push the finished stitch off the needle the first few times, which is why I highly recommend making a few practice swatches to gain confidence in doing this stitch if you’ve never done it before. It’s worth it. I can do the Brioche as fast as the stockinette, and it’s done all in one row.

For welting, the casing style, bring your needle from behind the stitch and flip knitting needle up to catch the bump that would be the n on the wrong side.

So, from the back, insert the knitting needle up through the yellow circle, the center of the stockinette stitch. Tilt the needle up a bit and pull back. This grabs the n bump which is circled in orange. Now you have your loop to bring up to the left needle and knit with corresponding stitch in that column. Once you do this a few times you will be amazed at how easy it is. It doesn't even require more thought than inserting needle into the stitch on the correct row and pulling back and you have your captured loop.

Kids High Top Knit Slippers

I have made a lot of baby booties over the years but never slippers and this year I was feeling the urge to crochet or knit some full sized slippers. I posted Linen Stitch Baby Booties pattern a while ago and I thought they would make awesome full sized slippers.

I wanted to make a stretchy rib edge so I started from the top down instead of from the bottom up. Using a provisional cast on and working the rib as K1, sl 1 wyf for a few rows gives a nice finished and very stretchable cuff edge. Where I would have normally increased I decreased and where I would have normally decreased I increased. These are made with a Stockinette stitch instead of linen stitch because I had to figure out the basics before adding a twist.

Color choice was made due to wanting to use up leftover yarn and I had three skeins of a chunky orange for some reason. When I play I often use what is at hand. In the end I like the pop of color.

Using Chunky yarn and larger needles these are the perfect size, as is, for a tween or a child under ten with wide feet. Next, I will increase the original cast on by a few inches and work accordingly for an adult sized pair. A nice purple would be nice. Or a rustic off-white or gray. I am looking forward to making myself a pair, using the linen stitch now that I've done a practice pair.

Pumpkin Spice Welted Fingerless Mittens

These are definitely my favorite fingerless mittens of the season. The welting adds a layer of warmth and they are so adorable. I love the colors. I meant to make a few more pairs with various color combinations but someone in the knitting group was impatient for me to post the pattern so that she could make them so I did not get a chance to make multiple pairs like I so often do.

The pattern is available on Etsy and also on Ravelry. There are two versions of welting in the mitt. First is the alternating knit and purls and then farther up the mitt is the casing style welting. If you saw the earlier post with the sock puppets these fingerless mittens might look familiar. I actually started with the yarn combination in my head and played with the welting which resulted in the hand puppet.

I named these Pumpkin Spice because of the orange yarn being named Pumpkin and the other colors add a hint of spice. It’s such a lovely color combination and we are almost into December and I have not even switched over to regular mittens or gloves yet because these are still providing great coverage. I just adore them.

Owl Rite Bag/Coin Purse/Key Ring and the 1-2-3 Hat Standard

Say hello to Mr. Owl Rite Money Bags.

Since I tend to make most things I always try to plan and execute all crafted Christmas gifts way ahead of the game. There’s nothing worse than trying to wrap up a gift hours before it needs to be wrapped. Hence, I am happiest when all my Christmas crafted gifts are completed in October. November is doable but I’m feeling the pinch. When I’m still working on gifts in December I get a bit cranky and feeling like my head is going to explode.

I have a family member who is an owl fanatic. I have her main gift done but was looking for some little extras and saw a cute crocheted owl key chain/coin purse. I didn’t download the pattern but I read it. It’s quite basic. Starting with a base of 6 sc it uses the 1-2-3 hat standard start. I’ve made hundreds and hundreds of hats over the years. I’m not sure if I can say thousands and thousands but definitely hundreds and hundreds. So it starts out like a mini hat and then when you have it to the height you want you just continue only working half the stitches with steady decreases for the flap. Pretty basic.

I think what’s so cute about it is the stripes and those little tufts on the ears. I don’t remember if the original owl I saw had the tufts. All the little stuffed key chain holder owls I saw had the tufts and I’ve seen that often before. I also used the crab stitch around the eyes to give it that finished edge. The eyes are just basic 6 sc inside magic loop and 2 sc in each sc then the crab stitch and a button sewed in the center. I like the wobbly look so didn’t match them exactly in positioning the buttons. A few running stitches with orange creates the beak.

I attached a clasp and will add a key ring once I find them. I have a whole bag of those buggers and I just saw them a few weeks ago but can't remember where I stumbled across them. Things get put away in a nice secure location... you know how it is. Or I pull supplies out of a place I normally store them and instead of putting them back in that illogical but memorable place I store them somewhere nice and secure... Hopefully not to never be seen again though.

This is how we end up with too many supplies. Right? You can't find something you need and know you had so you go buy another super-sized bag of key rings and use one for a project and then find the other super-sized bag of key rings that was in the box of supplies for the soft-sculpted Christmas ornaments in progress five years ago instead of in the box of beading supplies. Now you've got two bags of key rings and you put them away in a nice secure location...

I just find these cuter than cute and quite adorable. I wouldn’t use them for a coin purse since the coins could easily slide out the corners. It's quite snug and secure but not for coins. If you wanted to add a zipper then it could function to hold coins. Some cash or lipstick or something would fit in there nicely. Don’t worry, the family member won’t see this and ruin her Christmas surprise. If she somehow does she will just be excited and impatient for Christmas to arrive.

Oh, the 1-2-3 hat standard is that when you start a hat it’s standard to work 2 st in every st in second row, then work a stitch and work 2 st in next stitch then work 2 st and work 2 st in next stitch across, then work 3 st and work 2 st in next stitch then start working 1 for 1 after the 3 st between double st row. So, for a hat that starts with 12 dc the next row would have 24 then the third row would have 36 and on and on. For a tight pattern or thin yarn you can work rows with 4 or 5 stitches between the doubled stitches before going to the straight rows but I seldom have to do that. I can do another post with more detail.

Hooded English Brioche Fingerless Mittens in Red Wool

I do a lot of things outside, such as photography, that make fingerless mittens an important tool in my outdoor gear. As the weather is getting colder so is the need to cover up those extremities. It's amazing how cold fingers can get when the mercury dips lower and lower. True, we've had an especially warm fall but at night the temps are still noticeably dropping to crispy cold level. It's been an especially exciting year for Northern Lights this year, more displays than I ever remember seeing in one year. Late nights outside, exposed to the elements, mean cold fingers when setting up the camera to capture the undulating ribbons of color in the night sky.

These English honeycomb brioche fingerless mittens with hood are the perfect solution. I've had this wool yarn for almost a year now, waiting for the perfect project. I love the hint of purple by the same company because these two colors go so well together.

English brioche is a handy stitch to learn. The beauty of brioche is that it's double layered which makes it cushy and warm for winter attire. The English brioche is worked in one step instead of having to do yarn overs and knitting the yarn overs together with the neighboring stitch on the second pass. They knit up as quickly as if it's stockinette stitch because all the extra steps are eliminated.

The stitch is worked in the stitch below the stitch on the needle. This step can be quite scary when doing it for the first time. I recommend a practice swatch. The first few times you knit into the stitch below it feels like you've just tossed aside a live stitch to run amok in your swatch but it's really okay, it hasn't gone rogue like it seems. But it is important to get a good feel for the stitch before starting your project. After a few rows you will see exactly where the needle needs to go and that the extra strands of yarn sliding down the new stitch are exactly what you want.

It's amazing how many varieties of brioche methods I have encountered. This English style is by far my favorite and once learning it can't help but wonder why all the other, complicated varieties even exist. There must be a reason.

I am all prepared for winter and autumn lingers. The same thing happened when I bought a four-wheel drive vehicle several years ago, no snow that year. I was so ready for winter that year with four-wheel drive and cashmere mittens, wool scarves, and cozy chenille hats. Yet winter never came in its normal force. Maybe if I keep knitting all these fantastically warm and delightful winter accessories we will keep having mild winters.

Making Custom Beaded Wire Stitch Markers

I’ve seen tutorials for making stitch markers in many ways. A few years ago I made stitch markers by wrapping the wire around a fat pencil, giving it a twist, and bending the ends to go through the sides of beads. With such thick wire it was a bit of a pain but after the first few I got the hang of it and wrapped several dozen. They were pretty and worked well but then I saw a simpler version and wanted that.

The instructions were to take a jump ring, slide on a bead, and glue the bead over the gap in the wire to cover the rough edges that could snag your yarn. Using a pre-made jump ring is fine, except that it limits you on size. There aren’t many jump rings big enough to fit on a size 15 or 17 or even 50 knitting needle. But you can make your own jump rings so easily.

I used colored wire that is 16 gauge. You could use a 20 gauge wire but I like the sturdier weight of the 16 gauge. Both sizes are easy to find in any craft store or even some department stores that carry jewelry making supplies. I chose black and copper colors but there's red, purple, and blue available as well. Many colored wires are available. You could use any wire but I felt the coated wires would not effect my knitting needles so that's why I chose those. Pure copper and sterling silver will acquire a patina and I worried about that transferring to my Addi needles.

I wrapped the wire around a dowel. I happened to have a set of dowels that I had bought at a department store and I picked the biggest one. I think the set cost $1-2. You could use a pencil also. The wire was about $2.50. I used tri beads that cost between $2.50-3.00 when I bought them a few years ago.

I cut off about 2 feet of wire from the coil and wrapped the wire around the dowel by hand. It doesn’t have to be perfect. In fact, having a bit of space between the wire wraps made it easier to cut. 

Slide the wire off the dowel and use a flush cutter to snip the wire. I pressed the back of the flush cutter against the end of the wire to line it up evenly with the first loop.

Cut each jump ring from coil.

Slide bead onto newly created jump ring. Twist the jump ring closed. Just like in making jewelry, it’s important not to pull ends apart but use a twisting action to bring ends together. Hearing the ends click against each other is good. That means it’s a nice, tight fit.

Dab some jeweler’s glue onto the gap and slide bead up and over gap. Set aside and let dry completely. There you have it, a completed stitch marker.

The best part of learning this process is that you can custom fit any stitch marker. Just use a knitting needle a size up from what you want the final size of marker to be. You’ll see here a size 17 knitting needle which produces a stitch marker big enough to fit size 15 knitting needles.

I wrapped wire around a plastic size 50 knitting needle. For whatever reason, the plastic seemed to push away the wire, leaving a gap. That means that the stitch marker made on the plastic size 50 knitting needle can also be used for that needle.

I’ve been using the new stitch markers for about a week now and just love them. The beads have a translucent depth to them that make me feel good seeing them decorating the top of my knitting. They are light yet strong and so functional.  I often like simple items and these really work well for me both functionally and aesthetically.

I used Aleene’s Jewelry and Metal glue. Remember, you aren’t gluing the wires shut but gluing the bead over the gap. Pick a glue that will hold a bead to wire and all is good. You can make any size stitch marker that you want. Just be sure to check that the bead fits over the wire. It can get a little snug when the wire curves compared to being straight.

The topaz and amethyst beads are the same size as the aqua but the aqua did not want to fit on the wire once it was curved so only managed to get a few to work. It's the size of the bead's hole that matters. The bigger white beads in first picture are not glued. I just pinched the wire after inserting the ends into the beads. This will work also but will greatly reduce size of knitting needle that they will fit on.

Simple but elegant, custom stitch markers. Give it a try! You'll be surprised at how easy it is and you'll end up making dozens and dozens of these functional little rings of beauty. These would make great gifts for your favorite knitter.