Scrap Yarn Cat Bed Project

Last year I made a cat bed for the cat using up scrap bulky yarn. It was a great project to use up those odds n ends. The cat has a history of losing interest in special items for him. If you've ever seen those fun photo collections of cats sitting in the box instead of on the cat tree that came in the box, that's Max. I had seen some lovely cat caves at a craft show and been inspired to make one for the cat but my enthusiasm level was not as high was one would expect, tampered by the nagging notion that I would put all that time, effort, and money into something he would enjoy for a few days then never use again. He does that.

So, instead of a cat cave, I used up all the bits of bulky yarn leftover from previous projects. Mostly all those fox and wolf hoods I made the winter before for Christmas gifts for the kids. It worked up fast, I didn't have to buy new yarn, and if he was uninterested I could donate it to the local cat shelter. He liked it.

He really liked it. He went a few weeks without using it here and there but he kept going back to it, so it remained.

One day I was looking at that flat circle and decided it needed structured walls. I had made an ever expanding circle for the base and worked without increases for the walls, standard fare for making crocheted bowls, etc. But the walls just flopped down and laid there.

I had some leftover foam from making camera bag inserts so trimmed that to fit the height of the wall. I created a V by starting where the base and wall bet and crocheting either 4 or 5 rows around, whatever it took to reach the top with a little leeway. I inserted the foam in the pocket created and slipped stitched around to close up the pocket. I left a small opening in front. The opening is pretty standard but also happened to be the result of how much foam I had to use.

And Mr. Max is happy. He loves his cat bed with firm, structured walls even more than he liked it with floppy walls.

Provisional Cast On Tip for Floppy Ending Stitch

The first knitting book I bought was a book devoted to casting on and binding off methods. It's amazing how many ways there are to cast on and bind off but there are definite uses for some methods.

For example, the provisional cast on for tubular ribbing to provide a beautiful rolled edge for 1x1 ribbing for hats, cowls, mittens, and etc. That one took some practice to master knitting in the round. One of the biggest issues I ran into was that the first and/or last stitch cast on was loose, floppy, and on occasion got lost because it was just draped over the needle.

I tried the provisional method using the crochet hook and it just took too long for me. My favorite provisional method is when you make a slip knot (that doesn't count in stitch count) with a piece of scrap yarn and the main yarn then hold your hand like a long-tail cast on with the scrap yarn around your thumb. I don't know what this method is called. You reach under the scrap yarn with the right hand needle and grab main yarn, bring it under scrap yarn, then up, then wrap main yarn around right needle then reach down under scrap yarn and grab main yarn again.

Fast! So fast and easy.

The one and only problem is that the last stitch is just hanging on the needle. So, my solution is to do a long-tail cast on for that very last stitch. You have to pick it out when you are ready to remove the scrap yarn but it's easy to pick it out and then you just pull the scrap yarn and it slides right through the initial loops.

Just remember to reach through scrap yarn loop around thumb before grabbing main yarn and it will lock that last stitch in place.

I have tried many provisional cast on methods and for ribbing this is the simplest, fastest method.

Another tip, use a yarn thinner than main yarn when possible. If they are the same thickness it will work fine but using scrap yarn a bit thinner gives a noticeably tighter edge that looks really nice.

Oh, and just slide that bulky slip knot created with both scrap yarn and working yarn off the knitting needle then let it dangle there while setting up your first base rows. It holds that first stitch in place without being in the way.

If you want a good casting on and binding off reference book, I highly recommend this one:

Another Simple Shawl Made with Lightweight Yarn and Over-Sized Needles

Here's another shawl scarf made using a lightweight yarn and over-sized knitting needles

This is a Paton's Divine yarn that I held onto for several years while deciding the right project to use it for. It's a super soft mint green. I used the entire skein. Again, start by casting on 3 or 5 stitches and increasing at the beginning and end of every other row. I did this in stockinette and did a M1 (make one) after a 5 stitch garter edge and before a 5 stitch garter edge on the knit side then purled between the garter edges on the wrong side.

M1 is done by using the knitting needle to reach down and grab the piece of yarn between the two stitches between the two needles, bring the strand up to the left handed needle and knit through the back. It's a nearly invisible increase. The KFB increase works here as well because it's done right next to a garter section so the purl looking stitch of the KFB pretty much blends in with the garter stitch edge.

Using size 15 needles, I knit in stockinette with the 5 stitch garter edge until I was almost out of yarn, being sure to allow enough yarn to bind off. Bind off loosely. Doing a K2tog, put stitch on right needle back to left needle, then K2tog across makes for a nice, loose bind off. Doing the passing the right handed needle's stitch over the just knitted stitch makes for a too tight bind off for this.

The Patons Divine yarn skein had 129 m/142 yds 100 g/3 1/2 ozs. The color is called Frosted Green. And for some reason it shows it as a chunky yarn at (5). But it's not chunky. It's very thin foundation with halo type clumps. There's an actual date on the skein. 2007. Yeah, I held onto that yarn far too long. It's a lovely, super, super soft shawl.

Simple Yet Dramatic Shawl Scarf Is Easy to Make

Are you like me and just love the shawls worn in the front as a scarf? They are actually really easy to make and are suitable for a beginner. They are worked flat and only require knowing how to knit, purl, and make an increase.

Once you get your feet wet making a simple yet dramatic shawl you will be ready to face a more complicated pattern but for now, this is a great project to start.


This shawl is made with a lightweight yarn and over-sized needles (15). It's just a basic stockinette with a garter stitch border. Because of the large knitting needles it works up fairly quickly. I added the fringe and it was so light that it floated in every direction so I added a large seed bead at the end of every section of fringe to weight it down.

It's a simple pattern. Cast on 3 stitches and make an increase at both ends of every other row. For this one I did a yarn over after garter edge was established. First work in garter until you have the number of stitches necessary for garter border. So, if you want 5 stitches on each side, cast on 3 stitches, KFB (knit front and back of same stitch), K1, KFB, knit a row, Continue until you have 11 stitches then K5, YO, K1, YO, K5, turn knit 5, purl 3, knit 5, Turn. K5, YO, K3, YO, K5, turn. K5, P5, K5. turn K5, YO, K5, YO, K5 turn K5, P7, K5. It's just a matter of knitting the 5 st border, doing a YO, knitting the stitches up to the 5 st border on other end, doing a YO, knitting the 5 st border, turning, knitting the 5 stitch border, purling the stitches between borders, and knitting the 5 st border at the end of the row. Continue until it's the desired length.

I used almost 1 1/2 skeins of a lightweight alpaca blend for this shawl scarf. It's very warm and looks amazing.

I used Berroco Andean Mist. There's 164 yds (150m) in each skein. I expected to fully use both skeins but stopped a bit early so that I'd have enough for fringe. Next time I would cut off the strands I needed for fringe ahead of time and use up the second skein in the making of the shawl.

I should call this Angel Shawl or Cloud Shawl because the fringe floated everywhere before I added the beads. Winters get so dry. But I think the shawl scarf is even more a fall or spring accessory. Oh, I use them in the winter also, but they are just right to take the edge off on a brisk spring morning or crisp fall evening. And then they're visible instead of tucked inside a warm winter coat.

Classic Knit Cardigan From Purl Soho

Purl SoHo's Knit Classic Cardigan with Slight Revision

I made this classic cardigan, getting the pattern from Purl SoHo. First I made it with Wool Ease Moonlight. Because it was knit in stockinette it curled, even with the iCord edging. No picture here. Then I made it with this gorgeous purple Cozy Wool called Velvet. Both are my favorite yarns for the aesthetic, delightful colors. To attempt to avoid the stockinette curl I did a 7-stitch moss stitch edging while working the cardigan. It turned out great except that it needs buttons or snaps or something to keep the cardigan in place. It wants to slide down my shoulders. It worked up well though, taking a lot less time than I expected. It took 6 skeins of yarn with each color choice. The body took almost 4 complete skeins and the sleeves each took a skein of yarn.

Overall, very happy with this classic cardigan. It knit up so easily and quickly with the chunky yarn. I did not do the sleeves on the Moonlight version so I've been wearing it as a vest and it's very comfortable and lovely even as a vest. As you can see here, the Velvet version stays closed on the mannequin. It's not pinned or anything. I think it's the weight of the sleeves pulling it down when I wear it. A sew on snap or a shawl pin would be enough to control the creeping though.

I have six skeins of mustard yellow Wool Ease waiting for the next one. I will do a moss stitch or garter stitch edge again but not so wide. Maybe 3 or 4 stitches instead of 7 stitches.

Zippered Bag Made Using Flower Foot for Sewing Machine

When I bought the special edition Singer Sewing Machine it came with a flower foot. Also known as circle foot. It is simple to install, just remove shank and screw it into place, the same method as for attaching a darning foot, quilting foot.

It's fun to play around with different stitch styles to get different styles of circles. There are ways to tweak the foot's action to get circles that look even more specifically like flowers but using a variegated thread works well also.

It's just fun. The key is to use interfacing behind the fabric and then use a fun thread to make a pop of color. I made this bag just because I wanted to use the flower foot but it's perfect for carrying my circular knitting needles to Knitting Night at the local yarn shop. I use a tote, which is open at the top, so it feels more secure to have loose items safely contained within bags.

This bag would work well for a night out, just large enough for phone, card, and a few essentials. I have gotten into the habit of adding a tab with a D ring or O ring on every simple lined bag I make so that I can add a strap down the road if needed.


These bags are so handy. I use them to organize everything. Quite often the experiments I do find their way into use as cord holders, travel bags for jewelry, coin bags for foreign currency, to hold my camera filters, and on and on the list goes.

Almost Leather Display Head Form

A few months ago I was looking for a head form for displaying hats for photos and possibly for blocking. I have the standard white foam head display but though it does the deed, it's rather boring and if I use flash it reflects too much. I was really thinking a wood form would be nice but that was a bit beyond my skill level.

When I was in seventh grade I tried to carve a boxer dog head out of wood and that was a total disaster. The only help the shop teacher gave me was telling me to glue three pieces of wood together to form a giant block. Beyond that my dad helped with the band saw to cut out the general shape, ears, muzzle. No one told me what to do beyond that so for years I had a block of wood that was distinguishable as a dog's head from the side but nothing recognizable from the front or back. I digress. But that is why I fear carving wood or heaven forbid, turning wood on a lathe.

So, after many fruitless hours online, getting distracted with youtube videos that had nothing to do with head forms, I took to the sewing machine with some cheap, crappy fabric that I did not mind wasting with experimentation. First I went with the doll's head idea. Nope. That was not it. Tried a few other shapes and decided that a simple shape would do. That worked but the first one was too small, the second one was so big that no hat would fit over it so I had to adjust the size until it was just right. Had a pink head working model and a pattern was born.

Now here we are a few months later and I decided I better get back to the head form. I had some faux leather vinyl laying about and decided that would work to make one and see how it turned out. It turned out great! I am so happy with how it turned out and it looks like a luxurious leather. Very happy with it. So I made another, just a wider seam and trimmed off half an inch on the strip running down the middle. If I make another I would trim off an inch from the center strip and leave the seam allowance the same. I think. Well, I like both versions for different reasons.

The strip is long enough that after sewing the sides to the strip there is about a 2" flap, which makes attaching the foam core board base much easier. I also stuffed a baggy of rice in the form before closing it up to give it some weight. That worked really well.

Expect to see a lot of these head form displays as they will be my new hat displays going forward. If I end up doing more I might consider some bbs for the weight instead of rice. The rice works well but if they get wet, not good. So, for blocking, probably a wool or a canvas would work. Have to investigate a few options first, since I don't want to make anything that will hold onto the moisture until it mildews. Very happy with my faux leather head forms though. They give me the happy feels.

Simple Knit Cat in Chunky Yarn

I just love these simple but cuddly cats. They were made with the same knitting needles using the same number of stitches but the difference in the yarn, though both bulky, greatly influenced the end result.

This guy has embossed metal buttons for eyes. He's made with Wool-Ease yarn using size 15 circulars. I will make and attach a tail but not any arms or legs. He is tagged for a gift for a two-year old child, so cuddle factor is the desired impact.

This guy is used with leftover Rustic chunky yarn that I used to make a winter rolled brim hat last winter. He almost looks more like a dog, doesn't he? There isn't enough yarn to give him a tail so he will have to remain ambiguous.

They make me happy. They're so cute and sweet and cuddly. I started out with casting on 4 stitches and steadily increasing until the head was the size that I wanted and then worked around straight (no increases) for the length of the body. It's worked in stockinette until the length was reached and then I worked two rows of garter before starting the abrupt decreases for the bottom. The garter helps turn in the fabric and the abrupt decreases creates a flat bottom so the cats can sit. Fun and simple for a child's gift.

The ears are crocheted. I mix crochet and knitting quite often. It's quite simple, 5 dc, turn, a 5 dc decrease (start dc but don't pull through last two loops until the very end when you pull through all the partially worked dcs at the same time) to create a pointed top.

The muzzle is knit and worked flat. Started out with a cast on a few stitches and increased at first and last stitch of every other knit row, purling on rows without increases then worked a few rows without increases then decreased in the same way as the increases until I was back to the original number of stitches that were cast on. After binding off the the last row, cut a long tail and use tapestry needle to wind through edge, add some stuffing, and pull up tight. Wrap yarn around center of muzzle to create those fun puffy cheeks and whip stitch muzzle onto front of cat's face.

Exploring the Entrelac Stitch Pattern

Ever since the first time I saw entrelac I was captivated. I was a beginner knitter so when I looked at the instructions they were so intimidating that I recoiled in horror and never gave it a try.

Isn't it lovely though? That woven look is so delicious. Makes me shiver.

Years later and many layers of experience behind me, I decided to give it a try. With experience it was fairly straightforward to knit up a swatch. It's interesting, because my stitch dictionary has a purse project with entrelac sides and categorized it as for experienced knitters yet I have seen many patterns and videos online for entrelac basic instructions that categorize the stitch as advanced beginner. The reality is probably in-between. I certainly would not categorize it as a beginner project, even for advanced beginner. It's a medium process. As in everything in knitting, if you can knit and purl you can do anything. I just think that a beginner would be frustrated doing entrelac.

The results are awesome though! Beginner or experienced or in-between, if you are determined to learn entrelac it's so worth it. The backside is rather unattractive. Picking up stitches along the edges of the rectangles leaves a dotted line of color and the lovely bulging on the right side of the work that creates the woven effect is a concave of attractiveness on the backside. It lends well to projects where only the front side shows.

I made this cowl with one skein of yarn. I knitted it flat on circular needles and mattress stitched the sides together. If not for the different colors of the edge triangles the join would not even be easy to find. Using a variegated yarn with long strands of color changes is the ideal choice for entrelac. I enjoyed this choice much more than changing colors at the end of each tier. If you have to stop and change colors you have to cut the yarn at every end because the next row starts too far away to strand the yarn in the back. That leaves a lot of ends to weave in and a lot of shortened lengths of yarn if you decide to tear it out again for some reason.

This cowl is made with 5 st rectangles. You can make the rectangles 5 to 10 stitches long/wide. Just cast on a multiple of whatever number you decide to work and always pick up that number on the sides. For this cowl I cast on a multiple of 5 and picked up 5 stitches on each edge as I worked across. I don't have a picture here but I also made a cowl with 10 st rectangles. It worked up really quickly. Then I did a swatch of working in the round and purling backwards to avoid all the turning. That really works up faster, once you get the hang of knitting/purling backwards.

Now I am on the hunt for the perfect variegated yarn to make a scarf by knitting entrelac in the round (to hide that ugly back side) and seaming up tops and bottoms to make a thick, luscious entrelac scarf.

Custom Design Your Own Reversible Fleece Winter Hat with Earflaps

Reversible, warm, and stylish with any fleece or comparable fabric that you choose.

This is my favorite accessory this winter. Winters get cold in Northern Minnesota so we're used to the cold. Accessories make the cold more bearable. This double layered fleece hat with ear flaps makes a -14 degrees Fahrenheit feel closer to a modest 0 degrees Fahrenheit.

The wind blows here. Wind chill factors bring that same -14 degrees Fahrenheit down to a -30 degrees. Cold that shakes you to the core. Again, totally modest feeling with this hat to keep the cold Minnesota wind off the ears and head.

You too can make this hat in any color you desire. The hat is completely reversible so you can use a neutral color on one side and a fun, vibrant color on the other side. You can even mix up the colors in the four crown pieces and headband. When you feel like a punch of color, wear the color side on the outside. If you're feeling a bit more moderate, wear the neutral color on the outside.

The hat is made of 4 pieces to make up the crown and one headband with earflaps part of the band. 

Here is how you design your own custom pattern:

I did my best to line up tissue paper with grid mat for measurement reference as often as possible so you can refer to grid.

All seams are calculated at 1/2" seam allowance for this hat pattern.

Start with 3 pieces of tissue paper. Cut 1 4"x 4", one 6" x 7", and one 3" x your desired width. I have a 20" head circumference, which is on the smaller side. I cut my band 3" x 21" to allow for seam allowance and to have a loose fit. Works perfectly for 20-22" heads. This will be cut out on the fold so mark one end with fold line.

Let's start with the ear flap. Fold the 4"x6" tissue paper in half lengthwise. Use a protractor or find a lid as I did to mark to round the outside corner.

Cut the corner off.

Tape the ear flap pattern piece to the headband pattern piece. Be sure to keep it to the back half of the headband. I taped it about 2-2 1/2" from back edge. That gives a good 4" in front of headband. Note the fold line on right side of headband pattern piece. This is the front of the hat.

Now the crown pieces. Fold 6"x7" pattern piece in half lengthwise. I trimmed a curve freehand but if you want you can use the image above to make marks along the outside edge of pattern piece and cut along those marks. 

Now lay a piece of tissue paper over headband and outline the headband pattern piece, curving connection between ear flap and headband. Just smooth the corners. Transfer fold mark as well. I also drew a reference line on back side just shy of 2" from edge to remind me to leave a gap for turning.

Mark your pattern pieces for grain line and stretch line. We want maximum stretch of fabric to go side to side. This is very important when making your hat. You can use other materials besides fleece. I used a faux fur fabric for the inside of the cow hat. It just has to have some stretch to it and that stretch needs to go side to side.

Now you're ready to cut out your pieces. You will need 1 headband piece of each outer fabric and lining fabric. 4 crown pieces of each outer fabric and lining fabric.

Headband: 1 outer fabric

                             1 lining/inner fabric

Crown: 4 outer fabric

                       1 lining/inner fabric

Fleece, fake fur, and sweatshirt fabric are good fabric choices.

Le'ts focus on one side, the outer side. Cut headband on fold and 4 pieces for crown. I put a pin near the bottom of each set of quarters because I find that once you sew 2 quads together it can be a bit confusing to recognize what is the top.

Sew one side of 2 crown pieces top to bottom, right sides facing. Sew second set of crown pieces, one side, top to bottom, right sides facing. Now place two halves together, matching seam at top, right sides facing, sew together.

Sew back edge of headband, right sides facing, to close headband.

Quarter pin headband to crown, starting with headband seam matching a crown seam. Then pin front of crown to front of headband. Then pin each side.

Sew headband to crown.

Now repeat steps for inner/lining.

Put two sides together, right sides facing, and sew along bottom side of headband, leaving a 2-3" gap in the back for turning. It will all fit in that small of a hole, yes. Once turned, smooth with fingers, point turner, or blunt tipped scissors to get all the bumps out of the way along the seam. Then top stitch. I top stitch close enough to the edge to close up the turning gap but you can stitch it by hand first if you want. Not necessary to hand stitch it closed though as the top stitching does a good job of closing the hole as long as you pay attention to where the hole is when sewing.

As I mentioned, I have a 20" head and this hat is comfortably loose on my head but does not cover my eyes like on this poor mannequin's head.

I didn't really pay attention to how much fleece it will take as I was using up fleece I had on hand. I would say that a quarter yard on a long bolted fabric for each side would likely do the trick. Nothing was taller than 8" in the pattern. Allow for more for fussy cutting or matching designs in the fabric. You could always create your custom pattern and take it with to the fabric shop to make sure that you have enough.

One-Hour Banded Rolled Brim Chunky Cozy Hat

Knitting the 1-hour hat.

I love this hat. It knits up so fast and is warm and cushy. The perfect last-minute gift. From picking up the yarn to cast on to all ends weaved in, each one took less than an hour to knit. If you’re a slower knitter, it can still be done in an evening. It’s made with a bulky yarn on big needles so goes fairly quickly. Even if it takes you more than an hour, it’s a lovely, warm hat.

I wanted to use up leftover yarn from last year’s fox, wolf, and monster hoods so decided to make some hats. If you make it solid, it will take almost the full skein of Lion Brand’s Hometown USA bulky yarn. Since I was using up partial skeins I got creative in merging two or more colors. I think they turned out rather nice. They are so warm and cozy soft. I made many of them to give away but I will confess that I ended up keeping two for myself. The purple, solid hat is Cozy Wool and is one I kept for myself.

Size 15 needles, both 16” circular and either DPNs or long circular

Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Gauge- 2 st per inch

Basic Hat Pattern Using One Color of Yarn

Cast on 42 stitches

Place stitch marker and join, being careful that cast on row has not twisted.

Knit 3-4 rows

Work 1x1 rib for two rows (k1, p1)

The rib acts as a brake to stop the rolled brim

Knit until 5-6” from ribbing rows.

Start decreasing by *k5, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row

Knit the next row

Now *k3, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row, knitting any stragglers that don’t fit in count

(I usually switch to longer circular needles at this point, to work magic loop. If you're using DPNs you can change to DPNs at this point. Gets a bit tight to work on the 16" now.)

Then *k2, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row, again just knit final stitches as needed

Now *k1, k2tog, repeat from * to end

Finally, *k2tog, repeat from *

Cut tail at least 8” long, string onto tapestry needle, thread yarn through remaining live stitch loops and pull snuggly to close hole. Stitch into inside of hat and weave in tail securely, trim remaining tail.

String cast on tail onto tapestry needle and insert into first stitch to close any gap from the join then on inside of hat weave in end and trim tail.

For green hat with brown band and green mini hearts:

Start the basic hat pattern then:

Knit green for 2-3” from rib rows, change to brown yarn but don’t cut green yarn.

Knit 2-3 rows of brown

*Slip stitch, knit with green, repeat from * across row

Knit 2-3 rows of brown

Switch to green and continue.

Switch to pink and continue until it measures 5-6” from rib then start decrease rows

For Pink Hat

Start the basic hat pattern then:

Knit a few rows from rib

Change to brown but don’t cut pink yarn, Knit 2-3 rows brown

*Slip 1 stitch, knit with pink, repeat from * across row

Knit 2 rows brown

*knit with pink, slip 1 stitch, repeat from * across row

Knit 2 rows brown

*Slip 1 stitch, knit with pink, repeat from * across row

Knit 2-3 rows brown.

Switch to pink and continue until it measures 5-6” from rib then start decrease rows.

If you’re using up scraps, be creative in the bands across center of hat. For example, in the brown and ivory hat I had balls of each that were similar size so the band is fairly large.

It should be fun. Be creative with color combinations.

Rain Forest Crocodile Stitch Hat Using Unforgettable Yarn

Still my favorite hat. It's so light you almost forget that you're wearing it, except when you're out in public and people stop you and comment on how much they love your hat. Yet it's so warm that I can wear it even in the heart of a Minnesota winter. The biggest problem I have with this hat is that Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable has so many fun and delightful color combinations that I want to make a hat in each of those flavors! It's not a quick project but it is rather basic once you master the petal. There are a lot more stitches than normal to cover the area because each petal is created with dcs worked along the posts of dcs in the V-stitch foundation row. It will take almost the entire skein of yarn to make the one hat. It's not as complicated as it looks and I think an experienced beginner would easily manage this project.

Here's the basic rundown of how I made the hat. Feel free to use pattern for hats you plan to sell but be sure to acknowledge that you got the pattern from Cosmic Pony.

Crochet Hook size 00 (or size E can work)
Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable yarn --1 skein

Part of the charm of the hat is the yarn weight and color, so stick with this yarn to match pictured results. If you have a favorite yarn you want to use, keep in mind that a heavier yarn will impact appearance as well as gauge.

Gauge: 5 dcs/inch

Start with a Foundation row in multiples of 6. The Foundation stitch is when the chaining and sc rows are worked together at the same time. The benefit of this is a nice, stretchy, finished edge. If you don't know how to make a Foundation row, chain desired number of stitches, slip to join, and sc across for a row.

Create Foundation row of 96 st or 102 st. I initially used 102 for almost all the hats I made but switched to  96 st to tighten it up a bit because over time the hat will stretch out a bit. The difference is minimal and I mention the two numbers because I have a small head so someone with an average head or larger head would prefer the 102 starting number. The best way to find out your initial stitch count is to do 96 and wrap around your head to see if it fits.

After Foundation row, work 1 dc in each st around. 96 (or 102) dc total. Slip to join.

The crocodile stitch has two rounds, the V-stitch round which creates the foundation for the petal stitches and then the petal stitch rounds.

V-stitch Round:
Ch4, dc in same stitch. skip 2 st, *(dc, ch1, dc) in same stitch. skip 2, repeat from * to end. slip into ch4 space to join. (You can slip into 3rd ch but I just slip into the space.)

Petal Round:
Ch3, 3 dc down side of first post of V-stitch, ch1, 4 dc up side of second post of V-stitch. Skip a V-stitch and work 4 dcs down first post of V-stitch, ch1, 4 dcs up second post of V-stitch. Continue working 4 dcs down first post, ch1, and 4 dcs up second post of every other V-stitch. At the end of the round slip into 3rd ch that counted as 1st dc on post of the first V-stitch and also into the V-stitch's ch1 space behind, to join.

V-stitch Round:
Ch4, dc into same stitch. This counts as the first V-stitch for this round. Work a V-stitch (1dc, ch1, 1dc) into center of next petal. (Center is the ch1 space in the V-stitch that creates the base for the petal.) Then V-stitch (1dc, ch1, 1dc) into the space between petals, being sure to insert crochet hook into the ch1 space of the V-stitch that was skipped on the row before. So, when you insert crochet hook into ch1 space be sure to go under the the yarn where the first and last dcs of two petals meet, to catch it. When you reach the end of the round, slip into ch4 space. You will have the same # of V-stitches in every round of V-stitches and same # of petals in every round of petals. The petals will be offset.

Continue working V-stitch rounds and petal rounds until you have completed 9 rows of Petals. Slip to join.

Ch2. Work 96 (102) dc. Work 2 dc in same stitch, 1 dc into side of 1st dc going down the post, being sure to catch stitch behind petal also, 2 dc in center hole of petal, 1 dc into side of last dc going up the post, 2 dc between petals,. Continue working dc across last row of petals, slip into 1st dc to join. (ignore ch2 when joining.)
In simple terms, dc across the round, placing the dcs to provide even, complete coverage. It just so happens that doing 2dc in petal centers and between petals with 1dc between petal centers and petal edges provides the complete, even coverage.

ch2, 5dc, decr, 5dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, 3dc, decr, 3dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, 2dc, decr, 2dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, 2dc, decr, 2dc, decr around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, decr in every st around. slip to top of 1st dc to join.(ignore ch2 when joining.)

ch2, triple decr in every st around. cut yarn, leaving tail, weave yarn through tops of remaining sts and pull tight to close top.

decr:=yarn over for dc but only work first step, not second step to complete stitch, which leaves 3 loops on crochet hook. yo, work first step of next dc, yo, pull through all five loops. 2 sts have become 1 st.
triple decr= same as decr but do it over 3 sts instead of just 2 sts. 3 sts have become 1 st.
V-stitch= a dc stitch, ch1, and another dc stitch worked in same stitch. Forms a V.
dc= double crochet stitch
sl= slip stitch
Crocodile/Petal Stitch= 4dc worked on post of right leg of V stitch, ch1, 4dc worked on post of left leg of V stitch
st= stitch
sts= stitches

I steam blocked these. Blocking really helps finish the hats. Not only does it give the yarn a nice sheen, it pulls everything into place. The petals become crisp and lay flat, as they should. It really makes a difference.

Moonlight Wolf Knit Poncho with Fur Collar

Knit Poncho with Fur Collar

I made this lovely poncho for a Christmas gift for a family member and liked it so much that I had to make one for myself also. It is so warm and lovely.

I have included instructions for three sizes but really it’s a one size fits all. The three sizes affect the length of the poncho but you can wear any of the sizes whether you are slim or matronly in size.

 

Here’s the short version: Gage doesn’t really matter but it’s about 2 st per inch if you want to check and adjust if you are way different. Use size 13 needles. Circular needles work best since there’s a lot of fabric resulting. There is a garter edge while the main body is done in linen stitch. Constant increases every other row work to offset the yarn bars that are created when slipping the stitch with the yarn in front. For the rows worked without increases (across the shoulders) knit an extra stitch if necessary to maintain bar placement.

Cast on 3 stitches and knit the front and back of 1^st and 3^rd stitch then knit back then knit first stitch, increase with KFB in second stich and second to last stitch on right side rows and knit wrong side rows until you have 7 stitches. We are creating the garter stitch border. Start slipping first stitch of every row now and do an increase by doing KFB in center stitch of this row to give us even number of stitches.

Continue slipping first stitch, increase in second stitch, knit to last two stitches, increase in second to last stitch, knit last stitch on right side and knit across on wrong side until you have 12 stitches. Now slip 1^st stitch, increase in second stitch, knit 2 stitches, *slip a stich with the yarn in front, k1* twice, knit 2 st, increase, knit last stitch and purl back on wrong side. Next round will be slip 1^st stitch, increase in second stitch, knit 2 stitches, *slip a stich with the yarn in front, k1* three times, knit 2 st, increase, knit last stitch and purl back on wrong side. Continue doing this until you have 80 stitches for small, 90 stitches for medium, and 100 stitches for large. Work 6 rows without increasing, paying attention to bars from slipped stitches to maintain offset and knitting an extra stitch if necessary to maintain pattern. You can insert a stitch marker on either side of center stitch at this point.

Now we’re going to bind off 26 stitches in center for neck hole. Working in pattern, slip 1, k4, *slip 1 with yarn in front, k1* until you reach the 13^th stitch from center. Bind off 26 stitches, continue working in pattern to end of row. Purl back, cast on 26 stitches, purl rest of the way back. Work 6 rows without increasing then start working decrease in place of increase. Slip 1^st stitch, k2tog, knit 3, *slwyf, k1* to last 6 stitches, knit 3, ssk (slip 1^st then 2^nd stitch and knit them together through back loops). Continue until you have 12 stitches then continue in garter stitch, binding off last three stitches.

For neck, pickup up 60 stitches (26 on each side and 2 at each end) with main yarn, join and knit one round, decreasing out extra picked up stitches by K2tog at 24^th stitch and 26^th stitch and 56^th and 38^th stitch. Now add fur yarn and knit with both yarns for eight rows (will use up almost whole skein of fur yarn) and bind off loosely.

Very straightforward and I think even an experienced beginner will find this easy enough to do. If knitting in the round is intimidating you could knit back and forth for neck and seam it up the back. Or crochet the neck if you know how to crochet. The fur can be a bit tough to crochet because the stitches are buried in the fur.

Moonlight Wolf Knit Poncho with Fur Collar

Suitable for experienced beginner.

Detailed pattern:

Size 13

Yarn used:

”Moonlight” Chunky Wool Ease 5-6 skeins (5oz, 87 yds each and

Red Heart Boutique Fur 1 skein (3.5 oz/11 yds) 1 skein

Gauge: 2.5 st/inch

CO3

R1: KFB, K1, KFB

R2: K5

R3: K1, KFB, K1, KFB, K1

R4: K7

R5: K1, KFB, K1, KFB, K1, KFB, K1

R6: sl1, K9

R7: Sl1, KFB, K6, KFB, K1

R8: sl1, K11

R9: sl1, KFB, K2, (sl1wyf, K1) x2, K2, KFB, K1

R10: sl1, K4, P4, K5

R11: sl1, KFB, K2, (sl1wyf, K1)x3, K2, KFB, K1

R12: sl1, K4, P6, K5

R13: sl1, KFB, K2, (sl1wyf, K1) x4, K2, KFB, K1

R14: sl1, K4, P8, K5

Continue repeating rows 13 and 14, working (sl1wyf, K1) linen stitch repeats between garter borders on right side and purling stitches between garter borders on wrong side until you have 80 (90, 100) stitches on needle. Finish with purled side.

(80 stitches is for small, 90 for medium, and 100 for large)

Work 6 more rows without increasing, repeating these 3x

RS: sl1, K4, (sl1wyf, K1) to last five, K5.

And adjusting as needed to offset sl1wyf from row above by knitting a stitch before beginning linen stitch.

WS: K5, Purl across to last five st, K5.

RS: sl1, K4, repeat (sl1wyf, K1) to 13^th stitch from center. (Depending on size you might end on slipped stitch or knit stitch here). Bind off 26 stitches.  Knit 1 if needed to maintain offset or resume with linen stitch (sl1wyf, K1) to last five stitches, K5.

WS: sl1, K4, Purl across. Cast on 26 stitches. Use knit cast on. Purl to last 5 stitches, K5.

Work 6 more rows, repeating these 3x

RS: sl1, K4, (sl1wyf, K1) to last five, K5.

And adjusting if needed to offset sl1wyf from row above by knitting a stitch first.

WS: sl1, K4, Purl across to last five sts, K5.

Now we’re going to work a decrease wherever there was an increase on the first half.

RS: sl1, K2tog, K3, (sl1wyf, K1) x as needed, to last six sts, K3, SSK, K1

Ws: sl1, K4, Purl across to last 5 sts, K5

Continue working a 5 stitch garter border with decreases at second stitch, linen stitch across, and decrease on second to last stitch on right side.  Then 5 stitch garter border, purl across, and 5 stitch garter border on wrong side until you are down to 12 stitches.

RS: sl1, K2tog, Knit to second to last, SSK, K1

WS: sl1, knit across

Continue until 3 sts remain, bind off.

For fur cowl around neckline; pick up 60 stitches (26 on each side and 2 at each end) with main yarn, join and knit one round, decreasing out extra picked up stitches by K2tog at 24^th stitch and K2tog at 26^th stitch as well as at 56^th and 58^th stitch. Now add fur yarn and knit with both yarns for eight rows (will use up almost whole skein of fur yarn) being careful not to drop one of the yarns while working both together. Bind off loosely.

K= knit

P= purl

KFB= knit in front and back of same stitch

SSK= slip a stitch knitwise twice, put the two sts back on left needle and knit through back

K2tog= knit two stitches together

sl= slip stitch purlwise

slwyf= slip stitch purlwise with yarn held to the front

linen stitch= alternate slwyf and K1 stitches.

garter= knit on both right and wrong sides